August 16th

We awoke early and went out about the Medina at 0715. Our riad host had given us a detailed map of the Medina and directions to some places of interest. It is very empty inside and fascinating to walk through at this time to really see the place. This is before all the shops open; before all the swarms of people- tourists walking taking photos, Moroccans here to buy or get through to their homes; and before all the noise- shopkeepers trilling to get your attention and into their shop, the motorized carts hauling goods, and the 'guides' vying for your attentions for a tour. It is just us the clean-up crews sweeping all the trash, and the bunches of cats and kitties. We did take pictures of information boards and some interesting doorways. There is always good lighting at this time and it is cool… well, warm, not hot. Jeff followed the map and found a less traveled way back to our riad.

We arrived back to our place around 0900. As soon as we walked in the hostess (she is the wait staff, cook, and maid) met us to give us our breakfast. (She stays here. I think, the host does as well. They are not a couple, just live-in work associates- each have their own space.) Breakfast was same except instead of doughnut-type item we had couple of round breads, like cornbread flavor and texture, but only 1/2 inch thick and 3inch diameter. After breakfast we went to our room to cool off and relax. 

Back out and about around noon. Back through steps we did this morning (kind of) to experience the hustle and bustle I mentioned above. Gluttons for punishment? Maybe, but was worth it to see the contrast. We wondered some, then decided to get to the tanneries. Jeff went here with a friend back in 1986!! He wanted to re-experience it and show me. As soon as you start to enter you are given some mint leaves to use for covering the smell. I did not need them- as a nurse, you have a barrage of these. Anyway, a “guide” (he's a shopkeeper) described the process to us. There are a bunch of vats that treat goat, sheep and cow hides in a mixture of various products, including lime, salt, pigeons droppings and brains. The hides are colored with natural products such as tannins, pomegranate peels, and poppy powder. He asked if we have been here before and Jeff mentioned he was here in 1986 at this very tannery. The man was processing this information: “19..96??”  Jeff corrected and said 37 years ago. He was amazed and then asked if anything has changed. Jeff actually thought about this and looked around. At first he thought no, but then he looked beyond and said, “Yes, there weren't cell phone towers.” The guy laughed at this and nodded. Jeff was glad the guy asked him that because it really made he think and process!  Also saw some hides being clipped and shorn of fat. Anyway, we finished and, of course, had to exit through “our guide's” shop. Jeff did give him money for the tour. It was fascinating. I know my father did a bit with hide working- he had made a cowhide billfold I remember as a child, and his dad had done some butchering. Anyway, it was worth it for me for those memories, and for Jeff and his memories!!

After the tannery, we meandered a bit more and a guy asked us “Restaurant?”  We nodded and he took us to Le Patio Bleu. We went in. Looks pretty upscale- you can not assume from the outside. Jeff asked for the menu. We decided to split a Couscous Royale set menu (too hot out for a three course meal each). The waiter was okay with this and asked, “What meat and what to drink”- so he took our order. Then someone else was seating us and asked if we wanted terrace- “It is covered”.  Checked it out- we opted for this. It was four winding levels up! There was a nice breeze and pretty good vistas, plus was shaded well. Another person came and questioned just a coke and schweppes to drink. He was our actual waiter. Starter was Moroccan salads: (nine things) spicy seasoned carrots, smoky seasoned eggplant, seasoned different bell peppers, small bowl of lentil soup, steamed seasoned zucchini, green beans with red onion slices, pickled beets with cabbage, mixed olives and bread. They were all small portions, but wow, Moroccans do salads. Then our main: Couscous Royale- had bed of couscous then chunk of lamb nestled under zucchini spears, pumpkin (or some kind of gourd), potatoes, carrots, cabbage, chickpeas, and raisins; a bowl of the juices from the veggies and lamb. So good. Lastly, we were served chilled cubed melon and a bunch of grapes. Both were so cold and refreshing, but we have had better melon. 

Finished we headed out to a museum, Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts. You walk into a courtyard of three stories and a huge skylight. Each floor is rooms opening to the beautifully wood carved balconies of the courtyard. So the building itself is a sight to see. Each room is various Moroccan wooden items from instruments, to jewelry, to furniture, to religious tablets and pulpits, to weapons- to name a few. It was worth it and we enjoyed it.

Now, we went back to our place- cooling off time. We are not as hot as yesterday and have kept hydrated. Will have a light supper. But I want to put in few stats about Fez's Medina: First, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1981. Built in 9th century, it is the oldest and largest in the world. Has 10,000 alleys. Absolutely, no cars (they don't fit). Chouara Tannery is said to be the oldest in the world. Has the oldest degree-granting university in the world, Al Karaouin. And lastly, has at least 200 mosques (I can't find a hard number, but may be as many as 350).