January 13,

Up, about and readied. We can’t decide if we like our shower or not. There is definitely enough hot water, but it is very touchy to change to a tolerable temperature… too hot or too cold. Anyway, we had our Javas and breakfast of oatmeal and the last of our delicious honeydew.

Today we went to Valparaiso via metro. We are able to use our credit cards to swipe in and out on the metro. This is very convenient. I wish all places went to this system, as some around the world have. You don’t have to wait in line to get a ticket. Anyway, on board this time someone was singing with a portable mic. It was nice. Of course she came around for money. We have encountered this on every ride, even on buses. Usually though they are trying to sell you ice cream, candy, trinkets, or water, etc. We passed by where we had seen the Sea Lion begging for fish from the fisherman stall.

Shortly thereafter, we arrived at the last stop that the metro goes to. We got out, walked about, taking in a main square with a statue for Chilean Naval Heroes, May 21,1879, and its eternal flame. Behind this, the body of the square, was set up with tent stalls selling clothing to tourists. This whole area was an older, central part of Valparaiso with grandeur buildings of a long time ago. The lower layer of every building – unfortunately or fortunately – have become canvases for street “art.” I have conflicting views on this. Some of the buildings, especially the grand ones to me seem marred by some of the spray painted graffiti. On the other hand, I do find a few of the paintings lovely though, particularly when it is on the side of a building, or blends in with the building. It is a conundrum for me.

But we were mostly here to ride on the historic funicular system that was built a century (plus) ago. Jeff had a few plotted out on a map. We went to the first one, Ascensor Cordillera. It is a UNESCO Funicular and was built in 1886. The cost – to go up or down – was 200 CLP each, or 23 cents. We boarded and went up the short but very steep distance. These were built to aid in getting around the city eons ago, before cars. Jeff told me on board, he was warned of pickpockets, by someone. The views back down included seeing the working, natural harbor. Once we reached the top; we looked around, took in some of the graffiti works, but then a dog snarled at us. It was as if he was warning, “be on your way.” So we did, hiking back down the steep steps beside the tracks we had just gone up.

We now searched for lunch. We chose Taberna de Oscar, a Chilean/Peruvian Restaurant. We ordered Reineta Ceviche (a fish – Brama australis: commonly Southern rays bream or Pacific pomfret), and a Pastel de Jaiba (crab cake with a heavy layer of cheese). As we waited for our food we were served free stuff- a shot of Pisco Sour, a couple of bread rolls, a savory sopaipilla (sopapilla) each with pebre salsa (their version of pico de gallo). The crab cake was more like a casserole that was bubbling HOT. I had a mint lemonade to drink, Jeff had a cerveza. As we finished we were given a free green jello dessert each… lots of food because of all the freebies. We went up to the cash register and paid 39,600 CLP, or $44.75.

Now we went to do two more funicular passages. The first of the two was Ascensor El Peral, from 1902. It cost the same 200 CLP. I love the turn stiles to board – they must be original. We were on board with a few tourists – not so much locals. We went up and got out into ‘the Craft Protection Zone on the terrace of Paseo Yugoslavo’, according to signage. There was the Museo Baburizza in a very nice, kept up old building, but it was closed. So we meandered about here with many other tourists, taking in more street art and sweeping views of the city all around us. We went to our final and third funicular, Ascensor Concepcion from 1883. This one cost us a whole bunch more… 300 CLP or 34 cents! 😂 We took this one down, taking in our last overviews of Valparaiso. Once down, we exited, going down an alley, and ended back on a main street leading back to the square we started at. I did look back at the almost hidden entrance to the funicular. If you didn’t know the city, you could not tell it was there. This is surprising, but wondrous… makes you want to explore every alleyway.

We went back to the metro, boarded and reversed back to Vina del Mar. We arrived, went back to our place. It made for a fun, interesting day. We settled in, and watched some more of Star Wars sagas with popcorn.