November 1,

We awoke at 0700, but not up until 0730. We had our Javas in our room for the first time. Our kettle still had stickers on it – we had found out this place has only been opened 3 weeks! And the hostess that deals with us just started learning English!! She is doing quite well. At 0900, we went for breakfast. We were served bread with homemade (?) pineapple jam; a plate of sliced apple, sliced dragon fruit, sliced pineapple, and two bananas – that we took with us for later; a plate of sweet potatoes and little one inch sections of corn on the cob; and also a plate of sliced tomato and cucumber. We had the tea and fresh mango juice. YUM!

Then we got ready to head out for another big day, taking in some of the last sites our tickets  from yesterday, allow us to do. But before I go further, I uploaded information on this area from the brochure we got yesterday…

I should have added that to yesterday's blog, but I just saw it today! 

Anyway, our first stop was Hoa Lu, the Ancient Capital. At the site, we paid 20K Dong each (basically, 80 cents). A big banner over the entrance announced “Celebrating the 1,100th Anniversary of the Birth of Emperor Dinh Tien (924-2024)” as per Google Lens/Translate. We walked in and noticed goats roaming at the gate with a couple of kids. There was a big grand square that is empty (as in no people) except for a pavilion in the center. It is small compared to the square. without anyone there we just followed the people. We came to the Temple of the Dinh Tien Hoang King. It seems Hoa Lu became the capital of the first feudal monarchy, under this self proclaimed emperor, paraphrasing from a placard. We visited this temple. I liked the gardened entry, the colorful painted creatures at the cornices of the temple, otherwise not much else to note. The main display is only viewable through a barred window of the entry door.

From here, we walked a lesser path along aside road through a grand three arched, semi-neglected gate spanning the road. We pass small homes and by water ladened fields with grave sites(?). Since it was not marked well, had to retrace steps a bit, but we found it. It was a landmark, called Lang Vua Le Dai Hanh, but there's no real “there-there”. Not many tourists come here, and we see why. But it was different to walk through the water field area. We went back to the main area.

There is another temple – Temple of the Le Dai Hanh King. He came to the throne in 980, and he “helped maintain national independence” through “resistance of the Song invasion”, according to the placard. When one entered this temple there is a palatine on display, that was unique! Otherwise the same. And that was it. Placards with pictures show the extensiveness of the Ancient Capital, Hoa Lu. But not much remains visible now compared to the picture. We exited by daring to walk to the lonely pavilion in the huge square. It was a marker, something about the 1,000 year of Hoa Lu. As we left, others followed us to that pavilion. 

Back on our scooter we now go to our second place. This site is monstrous, and is covered with our tickets from yesterday. It is Bai Dinh Pagoda, or Bai Dinh Pagoda Spiritual and Cultural Complex! It has an original old temple and many newly constructed temples with a very tall pagoda. It is massive. As we arrive the parking area, we had trouble finding the scooter parking. It is on the scale of Disneyland or Disneyworld! BUT it is practically empty! We found it and the entrance, going through the zigzag empty lines to the turnstile. Our ticket is scanned by an employee, and we board an electric car, which takes off (after he waited a minute, without anyone else showing up). According to Wikipedia, “The compound…is considered the largest complex of Buddhist temples in Vietnam and has become a popular site for Buddhist pilgrimages from across Vietnam.” It holds many records: as in longest.., tallest…, largest.., etc. This place is also an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

There is so much here it is hard to continue writing, overwhelming… what to say? (Info here is from many different sources on the internet, including the QR code info from Bai Dinh). First there are at least 15 areas/buildings identified on the map of the 539 hectares complex. The original, old Bai Dinh pagoda was built in over 1,000 years ago – dates vary. It is humble and nestled by trees on a hillside. Next was the Three Gates and this is actually where you start for all the new part of the complex. Then were two parallel long corridors. One for entering one for exiting. Each one was 1700 meters long, which is just over a mile, called the  Arhat Statue Corridor. It has 500, larger-than-life Arhat statues (which are disciples of Buddha) lining the way and length of the hall. Behind these statues were many golden sitting Buddhas all lit up. 

Next we went to the Bell Tower. It has one impressive, most massive bell, as in 36 tons, and is the biggest bronze bell in Vietnam! To ring the bell, a trunk of an ironwood tree is used!! Then a bronze drum, 70 tons, is sitting below the bell. you can climb up to the second story of this tower and see the sheer size of the bronze pieces. Jeff wanted to hear it ring, but the tree stick was locked and secured! That was a good thing.

Now, we go to three halls: The Kuan-Yin Hall; The Buddha Sakyamuni Hall; and The Three Periods Hall. Both had glistening with golden statues. The first hall has a multi-arm with a circle of “1,000 hands and 1,000 eyes” behind it (Buddha gave them to the statues representative because she sacrifice her hands and eyes to somehow cure her father's illness; and this statue is flanked by statues that were made from monolithic trees. The second hall has a very decorated wooden wall half way down obscuring the statue, as if to make you get closer to it. This statue is flanked by two golden statue monks. Hall three has three statues – past, present, and future. 

Now we see other areas an enormous gate, a cutting of Bodhi tree from Sri Lanka, a Buddha-Worshipping Cave, and a few lesser temples with one or two more caves. We were zapped of energy (having like 11,000 steps -elevation steps already) and about “templed” out. We ate our bananas, crackers, and bought two small waters – having already drank our large one. We went to couple other places, lastly we went to the Bao Thien Stupa (or pagoda, not sure which is correct terminology.) We arrived and had to pay an extra 60K Dong each ($2.37). We also had to put on shoe covers (other places here, we had to doff our shoes). Anyway, this is huge: only13 floors, but it is 100 meters tall (328 feet). Once inside you climb up two flights of stairs, passing by Buddha statutes and reliefs of his life; and then take an elevator to the top, thankfully. (Somewhere on this 13th floor are Buddha relics brought from India.) The views up here were amazing and you can finally appreciate the entirety of the behemoth complex. We also saw the Maitreya Buddha Statue, that we chose not to go up to. There is also a Convention Center and Hotel here! 

Now we go down and exit the Pagoda. We work our way back to the electric car pick up spot, going by the Convention Center and couple more smaller pagodas and a reflection pond. We arrived at the car station and were the last two to board. It was full. We returned to the entrance and had to walk a set zigzag gauntlet of shops to exit, because we need more steps! Humph! We returned to our scooter and left. Wowza! What a information overload and physically wiped out day. 

Back at our place we showered and went out to eat. We chose Father Cooking Restaurant. They have great reviews for Vietnamese Cuisine online. We wanted Vietnamese local specialty of Goat Dishes. We had Steamed Spring Rolls with meat X6; Ninh Binh Special Grilled Goat, which is four large skewers of goat meat with pineapple, cucumber, cilantro, lettuce, and a ginger based sauce; Stir-fried Goat with Lemongrass and Chillies, topped with sesame seeds, and more ginger sauce. Jeff had a Local beer and I had Local wine. The whole meal was super excellent!! All the goat was tender and great vittles🤣!  Damages were 520K Dong ($20.55).

Whew! We went back to our place and relaxed. I blogged some, Jeff read. Bed by 2200!