Quy Nhon, Vietnam #44
December 3,
Today we awoke around 0700. We were both able to sleep in some! 🙂 We got about having our Javas and Muesli with yogurt (new that we had bought). The weather said only 4% chance of rain so Jeff contacted our hostess inquiring of a scooter rental. By 1000 we had a passport copied (haven't had to do this in quite awhile), paid the six buck day rental fee, and were given the keys of a Honda AirBlade.
We set off to having to get gas first, then search for some Cham ruins around this area. As we toodle along, the 24 mile drive to Duong Long Towers, we take in the country side – so many flooded paddies. Their are a few Water Buffalo, but their presence was smelled long before I sighted them. There were quite a few farmers out working the small plots of mud/water filled fields. Some use modified small tractors to ply their fields, but much is still hand done. So many bending over planting/pulling, shoveling or hoeing… it was laborious work, to say in the least! It struck me, this never ending job, has been done much the same way for centuries. As we go, we are on big roads and bridges, but then small single lane roads. We also witnessed more big roads being constructed, as we have seen all over Vietnam. So much infrastructure being improved! Anyway, we hit some rain!?? What!? There was A poncho that came with the scooter. So Jeff put it on and I draped the back over me some as it was super big. Thankfully it was not a huge downpour. We arrived at Duong Long Towers at 1108 only to see it from afar. The gate was pad-locked and seems to close from 1100 to 1400 daily(?)- not sure on that. We snapped a couple of photos of the three towers jutting up on a hill, and moved on.
Next we came to Thap Canh Tien. Here we had to pay 30,000 Dong ($1.18) total for our entry. The site's mounted placard, as translated by Google, reads Thap Canh Tien to be “Fairy Wings Tower” and that it is “Cham architectural art relic in the mid-12th century.” That is all the info we are given by the placard. This is fine because the ruin speaks for itself. It is magnificent! Brick and stone built without any mortar. The tower is very tall, I won't guess because I am bad at this. But it is in great shape, there has been some restorative work in 2010 – financially backed by Germany, two plaques state. Inside the hollow tower, the brick is graduated to make a steeple-like height, with uppermost left open to the elements and sky. I love the contrast of the brick with the gray-white stone embellishments. The brooding gray sky also gives a different effect.
We attempted to see another Cham ruin, but we could not find a way to get close to it. We experienced a bit more rain – so much for that 4% chance on the weather app. Actually the two prior days, it was supposed to have been an 80% chance, and it never did! Aggravating! So we decided to head to Nhon Ly – a city or town that has a great beach, that you have to pay to go to! This is because the only road to the beach is a steep 15% grade uphill and then an even steeper downhill to get there. The downhill part of the road is controlled and you can only use the trams provided – hence the reason you pay an entry fee. We found the entrance to Ky Co Paradise Beach. Jeff paid the 170,000 Dong each ($6.69 each).
Our scooter made the climb well. We found the parking and the trams. We pulled in and heard a distinctive, “Hello”, and we both responded likewise – only to realized it was a Macaw parrot that had greeted us! How funny that was!! Then we saw Guinea Fowl running about, and some other birds, such as Peacocks and others I don't know the names of. It was almost an aviary for birds! Anyway, we boarded a tram cart and were driven down the very steep decline to Ky Co Paradise Beach. There were other people, but only a ten or so scattered on the beach. Where we were let out is Ky Co Resort. There are cute little “glamping” huts, I bet they are expensive! Qualify that – expensive for Vietnam. We strolled the empty boardwalk. There were two Asian girls posing in their bikinis, taking their Instagram shots we assumed. All the other people were on the boardwalk that is along a cliff off of the beach. We walked in the opposite direction to the other end. This place has a bunch of closed restaurants with a few locals sitting around. I don't know if they would have fixed us food if we asked. It's feels odd and deserted here. We saw a place with Jet Skis & Kayaks, but they haven't been used in some time. There are also some cement statues of fish, an octopus, a giant clam, etc.. We even saw signs advertising a Seal Show, but somehow we don't think it is viable now. It's kind of sad. We found a restroom that was working, mostly. Then we retraced and went over to the boardwalk along the cliff side. It was more dramatic as waves crashed and splashed on a couple of areas. Some locals were fishing from here. At the end of the walkway you can see the whole beach. I can see this beach's appeal. We now turned and head back to the tram. It was neat to see & explore, but would have been better on a better day – especially, if the restaurants & activities would have open. It wasn't a good vibe.
We boarded the next tram and returned to the top. We took in the “mini zoo” and saw a huge orange Iguana in addition to the various birds. We got back on the scooter and went on into the town, Nhon Ly, to find lunch. We struck out with food, but explored this fishing town, nevertheless. It has a little beach and port. There were the fishing boats anchored in the bay. We even caught a little “bowl” boat returning. I don't see how these work – paddling in a round, circled structure! Questions?? Anyway, there were men working on nets and sorting fishing gear. It was a nice to see some activity in the town. We also saw a couple of Buddha-type statues, couple of Pagodas, and some temples dotting this town's skyline. But we were hungry and decided to leave and just go back to Quy Nhon.
We arrived into Quy Nhon and just went on to the mall. Upon entering the mall, we discovered a there was a Thai restaurant – Siam Thai. We ordered Papaya Salad with sliced pork, Phuket Grilled Ribs, and Chiangmai Grilled sliced pork. We also each had a Thai lemon tea. It was great flavored, but not necessarily Thai – and we were hungry it was 1500. It cost 440,000 Dong ($17.32). We also bought a few things at the Go. We went next door to the Mega Market. I found a couple of replacement shirts. Finished shopping and it was not raining, we went to a last Cham ruin right in town. We arrived and paid 20,000 Dong each – basically 80 cents each. The placard here called these ruins simply “Twin Towers” (as Google Lens translated). Also through translations:
Twin Towers, dated from the late 12th – early 13th century, are one of the Champa temples with clear influence of Khmer elements,… and carrying the Khmer art style of the Angcovat-Bayon period.”
That is it was influenced by Angkor Wat. You definitely see this as you look at these ruins. One of the “twin” towers has been preserved or restored more. It is interesting to see the differences vs. the similarities as they are side by side. They are both good representations. It is hard to belief they are right in the heart of town here, and not but a handful of people here.
We finished our days venture here, glad we were able. We now went back to our place. Jeff contacted the scooter guy that we were done with it. And the guy came right over and picked it up. We relaxed and had a very light supper of bread, PB, an apple, and last of a packaged mango slices that were nicely seasoned with chili and salt (we liked them over sugar seasoned ones). After dinner I blogged some as Jeff read. Very good day!