Porto, Day 3
May 24th
We got around a bit early today. Left at 840 to catch the metro, x2 lines to get to train station. We are taking a day train trip into the Port Wine country! It was said to be the most scenic in Portugal, with some saying one of the most scenic in Europe. The train arrived 10 minutes late, but we don't have a schedule to keep. There was one engine and four passenger cars, no assigned seats so we took what was available – facing each other, on the wrong side of train. There were no windows seats available on the other side – the good one! But it worked out – we were able to sit on the good side in the aisle, facing each other, in a few stops. Yeah!! We were sharing seating with a Canadian couple, but did not talk much as they slept the first bit and primary language was French.
Anyway, as we leave the suburb area and the train starts to meander with the Douro River… Beautiful, it's all I can think! The river winds down through tall hills with small villages, houses and buildings dotted along. Some of these are on the river bank; some nestled in the middle; with the rest going for dramatic as they hang on the top of an outlook. Then the terracing starts: all those lovely grape vines marching single file up the side, or (as is most of the time) in rows that encompass the whole hillside. Then come the names of the port houses that own this spread of terraced, mass of green vines. Names, that we saw, such as: Quinta dos Frades, Quinta do Tedo, Sandeman, Graham's, Quinta das Carvalhas, Pessegueiro, Quinta Douro, Cadao Douro, and Cockburn's. There are so many!!! (I, of course, did not name them all!) Some are Portuguese still owned, some English, German, ect. All of the grape vines seem to 'line dance' on the hills around their particular houses.
It was a gorgeous day and we were blessed to take it all in as our train snaked along one side of the river, through tunnels and over bridges. The river itself had a couple of dams, but this did not really cause big reservoirs, like I have experienced dams to cause. Also on the river are the wooden river boats that used to haul Port wine down to Porto, but now transport tourists willing to pay for an excursion cruise. It looks peaceful and serene, but we are on a train, chugging along and blasting it's horn as necessary. So, not so, peaceful, but it is a great train ride! Jeff and I are fond of trains, and have been on a few.
We went to the end of the line and stepped off the train to watch them uncouple the engine and reposition it. So what was the back of the train is now the front. We reboarded and took in the same path back, along the rails, by the river only in reverse. But on the way back we broke up the trip. We disembarked at a popular train station and went for lunch. We arrived about 2:15 – good timing, as they close at three for their afternoon siesta. We had starter of salad. I had lamb chops (yum) with sides of broccoli and some of the best mashed potatoes I have ever had. (They had a bit of basil pesto in them. For any foodies out there, if you have not done this – you need to!) Jeff had a huge piece of cod with the skin crisped. (It was so flaky and crispy! – together was an awesome combination.) He had broccoli and butter mashed potatoes as sides. Another excellent lunch!
After we went to Quinta das Carvalhas, I had another port tasting. I'm still a tawny girl, but their 20yr old did not stand out as much as the Graham's Port I had before. To qualify, this is to my tasting!! Carvalhas is one of the oldest Portuguese Port houses, dating back to 1759, and some grape vines are 100 yrs old! The tasting was a great experience, for me. 😉 (Jeff is very nice to let me!! Must be true love!)
Anyway, we finished our time before we head back, just sitting along the river, Douro. We arrived back to our place around 9pm; tired, from long day, but counting ourselves blessed.