June 29, 

We readied and to breakfast by 0830. We were given a Sri Lankan breakfast: an Egg Hopper; Plain Hoppers (at least X6); String Hoppers (at least X10, with one string hopper wrapped around some grated coconut and palm sugar/honey; a Pancake w/ the grated coconut and palm sugar/honey mix; the same mix wrapped in a leaf; Dahl – one of the best flavored ones we have had; X4 Toast w/ butter & jam (which we did not touch); Tea; and a Mixed “Juice” of Papaya, Banana, and Pineapple – actually was like a smoothie, so thick and creamy. We had all we could eat and unfortunately, left quite a bit or a lot, depending on your perspective. Finished we went back to our room and readied – but had to wait on my phone to charge. Out by 1000. 

We went to the big site here, Ancient City of Polonnaruwa. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which they describe as “the second capital of Sri Lanka after the destruction of Anuradhapura in 993 AD. It comprises…the monumental ruins of the fabulous garden-city created by Parakramabahu I in the 12th century.” I'm excited to see the second capital. It was only a capital from 11 Century AD to the 13 Century. We arrived at the Museum. (Our resort owner had given us a hand drawn map of the area and he told us to go to the museum for our tickets.)  As soon as we park we had two men trying to sell us trinkets, maps, etc.. Another guy also approached us to be our guide. As a guide he wanted $25 or whatever we deemed. (Jeff almost put the kibosh on him with that.) But we discussed it and accepted. We went into the museum and bought our tickets – $30 each. The price had gone up! Our guide took us around this museum. It was a better museum, overall, as compared with Anuradhapura. there were displays of many of the various sites and a few models of how the places would have looked when they were new. One actually showed the great “roof” that would have covered/protected a site. That was cool to see, as we could only imagine it before (since the prior museum did not have this). That roof alone was an undertaking!! Let alone the stupa it protected! Polonnaruwa remained the capital of Sri Lanka 

Anyway, we left the museum and loaded in CB with our guide, Suranga. (I had him write it down!) Jeff and I had initially planned to do this complex on bicycles, as our place has some available to use for this very purpose. But it is going to be super hot today – 97 degrees, with feels like 107 – not bike riding weather! So I was glad to be climbing in CB! As we were leaving the parking area, a Water Monitor was cutting across the lot in front of us. I thought it to be a Monitor Lizard, but Suranga, politely corrected me, “Ma'am, no, it is a Water Monitor – see the yellow patches.” I love how the Sri Lankans are so polite!!!  So I was Ma'am and Jeff was Sir for the rest of the tour! 

Suranga directs us south first along Parakrama Samudra. It is a huge man made lake from this 1100-1300 AD time period. Our guide said it was made by seven smaller lakes. It is a large accomplishment. The King Parakramabahu I is credited to have said that…'no drop of water falling from the heavens was to be wasted and each was to be used toward the development of the land.' I don't know that the kingdom managed this, but what a task. Also I read from this same source, Ceylon Expeditions that… 'Hence, irrigation systems that are far superior to those of the Anuradhapura age were constructed during Parakramabahu’s reign – systems which to this day supply the water necessary for paddy cultivation during the scorching dry season in the east of the country. The greatest of these systems is the Parakrama Samudra or the Sea of Parakrama.'  Our guide, Suranga says the lake does go dry in August. Seems to have too much water for that to be the case!! We watched cormorants, egrets, and couple of storks sunning themselves on a little island in the lake. Anyway, now to the southern part of the ancient complex.

We arrive at the Potgul Vihara area and to the Potgul Vihara Statue. The statue is carved from stone almost 12 feet tall. Suranga says it is believed to be the king reading from a manuscript. It has an awning protecting it and has nice detailing for as big as it is. Next in this area of ruins/buildings of the monastery, Potgul Vihara, is thought to be a library shrine, according to the placard. The placard also states circular brick building is not usual in Sri Lanka and if it was a library it would be the oldest library known complex of Sri Lanka. I asked Suranga if it is known how many “books” may have been here. He replied, “it is not known ma'am.”  The round part of the building seemed to be inside an outer square foundation. We did not go to anything else here as it was all just foundations now, so we loaded up in CB and moved on.

Arriving in the central part of ancient Polonnaruwa, called the Citadel. According to the placard, it was fortified by wide brick ramparts (we just see foundations), an area of 8.6 hectares that protected the Royal Palace and many other buildings, one being the Council Chamber. First we see the Royal Palace, Vijayotpaya or Vijayanta Prasada, meaning, 'The Palace of God Sakra'. It was an imposing seven-storied building when built for the King! Now it's ruined status is only about three stories high, but still impressive. Suranga said the palace had 1,000 rooms; showed us foundations of quite small rooms, to large rooms; and showed us the evidence of the stories remaining. I think it was here he pointed a structure that was of Ebony wood. We now meandered around some other foundations to the next site. We descend a long flight of stairs to the Kumara Pokuna, which was the Royal Bath. The structure still holds water, but the water is moss covered now. The placard said it could be filled and drained during the King's time (but obviously not now). Right next to this was a foundation of a structure, Salu Unana Mandapa, believed to be the changing room for the bath. There were some nicely carved lions in the balustrade of the couple of steps up to change one's clothes. We left the bath and ascended the long flight of stairs back to the other foundations. Suranga pointed out the pillared foundation one as being the Council Chamber, and showed us where the throne was. This elevated foundation had still some of the nicely carved elephants on parade, as if they supported the structure and it's balustrade was even more elaborate with the top two having lion guards. There were two half flights of stairs, with a moonstone half on the landing in the middle and at the bottom. Now, the rest of the foundations of this area, Suranga said were for support of the King such as servants working/sleeping quarters, concubines rooms, and any other entourage the King needed. We loaded up into CB and moved on. 

We go to a third area still in the central part, the Sacred Quadrangle, Dalada Maluva. The Temple of the Tooth was situated here. The first place we go to the placard called the Vatadage. This is probably the best building site I saw here. There is a lead up-hall to a round foundation that supported pillars for a ginormous roof. (We saw this model in the Museum.) Inside this was the round structure of maybe the original Temple of the Tooth – Buddha's tooth (as it was housed here before it went to Kandy). Entry into this was up a half flight of stairs guarded by two guard stones and having a moonstone landing. The two guard stones and this moonstone were still in excellent condition and beautifully carved pieces! Up the stairs is the stupa and four (facing north, south, east and west) different, seated Buddha statues. We walk all around this small stupa and exit a different way to go to a second site here in the Quadrangle, the Atadage. The placard says this was a two storied building and may also be identified as the Temple of the Tooth. The upper floor supposedly housed the tooth relic and the bowl relic. (Maybe both of these temples housed it at different times, I don't know… Questions??) Inside the main square of this temple were three sizes of Buddha statues in bad shape. Suranga pointed out where the statues had been cut into to remove gems and then poorly patched back up. Next was the Bodhisattva Image House, a many pillared  rectangular site of just one standing statue of Buddha. Next was Nissamka-Lata Mandapa, a pavilion with vine carved pillars. Lastly was the Thuparama. This is under a lot of reconstruction, the whole outside was practically engulfed all in scaffolding. Inside was an empty room that lead to a “stature room'(?) There were many Buddha statues here, standing and sitting. Suranga said they were each made of different materials: White Quartz, Marble, Mica, Dolomite, Granite (he said  couple of others but I have forgotten them). The main pedestal was empty – Suranga said it was supposedly a large gold sitting Buddha there (the placard also said this). Now we load into CB and go to the next site.

We arrive to the Northern part of Polonnaruwa, at Rankot Vihara, which Suranga said is in the part of the Crematory College area, and medical instruments were found here. This is the fourth largest stupa in Sri Lanka (the three larger being up in Anuradhapura). This brick stupa is very notable with it's large pinnacle. Suranga said the pinnacle used to be covered in gold. Around 54m high (I have conflicting info how high it is), it is very much like the other stupas. We walked around it, but Suranga opted to stay in the shade. There are other foundations of ruins here but we get into CB and move on.

Now we came to a must see place in Polonnaruwa, the Gal Vihara. These are four huge stone carved Buddha statues in a rock face. (As we approach a lizard skittered in front of our path.)  Anyway, the first is the large seated Buddha. It is cut into an alcove of the rock with some of detailing in that alcove, but much more on the Buddha statue. But the rock itself is striped with layering colors and carries into the carved statuary. It is visually stunning. Next is a smaller seated Buddha behind and chain gate area and is where most Buddhist worship and leave offerings. Third is an impressively carved statue idol and then the larger reclining Buddha idol. The carver had an eye and is what makes this artwork pop and impressive. These statues have a modern tin roof protecting them.

We now move to the Kiri Vihara. It is very restored and Suranga says tonight a ceremony is happening to place a lightening rod for protection. We walked up to it, but moved to next site in this area. Walking to Lankatilaka, one cannot help but feel small! It is an impressive decorated 17m (56 feet) high narrow aisle entry to an giant image idol of Buddha. (Whew! That was a sentence huh?) The statue is headless now but wow! I think it seems bigger because of the tall narrow entry that exaggerates the already long lines of the statue. Jeff looks small next to it! 

Now Suranga was calling the day. It was hot but there was one more thing that was on the map we have that had sparked my interest. So we loaded up and arrived at the (small compared to where we just were) Lotus Pond.  It is five tier ascending/descending lotus flower shape, like a step well. It did not have any water in it, but this made it seem neglected and calling for some TLC. I think I was the only one who wanted to see it, and I enjoyed it! 

From here we loaded into CB for a last time. We took Suranga back to the Museum and Jeff paid him 7,000 Rupees ($23), not to bad for a couple of hours work – if I do s