Moroccan Living 37
August 15th
We have continental breakfast included with our riad stay. It was juice (hand squeezed) and coffee or tea, basket of breads, two pancakes (different than our Baghrir), two home-made type doughnuts (heavier than a doughnut, and not as sweet) with small saucers: one butter, the other apricot jam. It was filling and good.
Now we met a driver/guide for an excursion Jeff had booked through our raid. We are joined with two men that know each other – one from Spain (he did not speak to us much, I don't think he was comfortable with English), and the other man is from Uruguay, but lives in Spain now. It is my first time meeting anyone from Uruguay. Anyway, our excursion is to Roman ruins, a beautiful town, Meknes, and then back to Fez. We started and our driver took us to an overview of a natural lake, Barrage Sidi Chahed. It is not as full of water as google maps shows, but it is dry season (and hot). Driver did point out that it is natural fed and said, “worth more than gold”. Of course there were people there trying to get us to buy something – juice, take a photo of a kid on a donkey, ect. We took pictures (without the kid) and got back in the vehicle, so did the others. Just will put in here our driver could not get the A.C. going. He kept apologizing and said it is not his vehicle. Right now the air coming in the windows was adequate for a bit of cooling, as we are gaining elevation.
Next stop was what we wanted to see: the Roman ruins, Conservation du site Archeologique de Volubilis. We unloaded and paid a “foreigner” ticket price. Our driver said meet back in one hour. Looking at it from afar first impression was almost a deja vu for me of some ruins in Turkey. You can see Roman columns with Corinthian capstones. We walked over and explored. This place was
“The Mauritanian capital, founded in the 3rd century B.C., became an important outpost of the Roman Empire and was graced with many fine buildings.” quoted from UNESCO.
There is a basilica, temple, and a triumphal arch; as well as, several mosaic tiled floors of fine homes throughout the site. There was also remains of an olive press – which was and still is a major industry of this area. Actually going through this we both thought this was some of the best Roman ruins we have been to. Of course, outside of Rome; and Jerash, in Jordan (It is a whole city and has been preserved much better). Our time ran out too quickly, but we were good and arrived back at entrance in time, as were the other two of our group.
Next, we were chauffeured to very picturesque town, Moulay Idriss Zerhoun. In 2004, Google gives a population of 12,611. It is mostly white-washed buildings hanging on the top of a couple of hills. We unloaded and told time of 30 minutes. We went and tried to get lost. At first, we were hit up for guided tours couple of times. Finally, they got the picture, and we were left alone. We found some nicely muralled walls, and just looked around. We did not find the overlook for the Mosque, but we were okay with this. We arrived back at our meeting point, but the other two were late. They kept popping into food places! Finally, loaded in vehicle – I think 15 minutes late. It was definitely getting hot. The driver figured out how to turn on A.C. to the back!!! Just in time!
From here we went to Meknes and lunch. Driver gave us three-plus hours (til 5pm) to explore Meknes. He dropped us off at a tourist place, but said it was the best. We looked at the menu and decided to stay. The others went elsewhere. We did not order set menu because we are both so hot and not real hungry because of this. I had chicken almond pastilla, Jeff had lamb tagine. As we were leaving restaurant, the owner took us to a cooperative, of course, why not. (It was close to where we wanted to go next.) One of the craftsman, working with silver, was interesting. He showed us how he hammers the silver “threads” into a design. I almost felt obligated to buy, but the feeling passed and we exited. We struck up a conversation with an Israeli man. His work is digital so he has been traveling, for one year now. Anyway, the Meknes Mausoleum Moulay Ismial opened so we parted company. Inside is nice ceramic-tiling throughout, wood-carved ceilings, Islamic style arches, and very peaceful with a couple of running fountains. This man ruled Morocco 54 years during late 1600s and early 1700s. This site is an important one in Morocco. After we finished we just meandered about Meknes. But our interest was waning as we were wilting. It is just so hot!! 98 degrees! “But it's a dry heat,” whatever, I am not a fan (but wish I had a fan) LOL! We did stop a buy an Ice Cream treat. WOW! That helped a bunch!
Anyway, we showed up early to head back, as did the other two (about five minutes after us). We loaded up and were very thankful for A.C.! We were squired back to Fez. When we arrived our driver wanted to take us by the King's Palace, “free, just to see”. It is all that. Then he took us all back to our places.
We stopped and bought some drinks- me a Sprite, Jeff a Fanta – a liter each. We were definitely dehydrated some, but have been worse. Back at our riad we just cooled off a bit (we had left our A.C. on), and cool showers. Supper was just chocolate. Tomorrow will be just exploring Fez, but not during the hottest part of the day!