January 11

Last night we went to the train station by 2120. The train starts here but it was still late – supposed to be 2156 but didn't arrive until 2208. But we managed to all load and it left at 2215. Arrived at Madurai at 0015 – 30 minutes late. Caught a tuk-tuk to Sri Sai Guest House. Got checked-in and crashed by 0045.

I awoke at 805! I felt like I slept solid. Jeff did not fair as well. The bed is hard – I likened it to sleeping on carpeted concrete. Anyway, we got around. Jeff went out to explore. I washed some essentials in the bathroom sink. We were just making our plans for the day, when the manager knocked lightly on the door. He asked if we wanted coffee. Sure, we do! He came back in 10 min with two teas, not coffees, and two savory donut-type breads- they had curry leaves, onion, and a dark herb. They were presented on a portion of a banana leaf. This culture does this a bunch. And the manager also brought an Indian newspaper in English! Then he offered to arrange us a tuk-tuk to take us out. He also took our big sack of laundry – we haven't had a place to have it done since our homestay in Alleppey!

So at 1030, we boarded tuk-tuk and went to the main Hindu temple here, Meenakshi Amman Temple. No tuk-tuks are allowed past a certain point, so he dropped us off as close as possible . We walked about 1/2 block and the temple square opened up with the huge, multi-colored vimanas. These seemed more intricate because the painted gods popped out visually. These vimana are superstructures, and quite something to behold. We walked a third of the way around it and then went back to enter at the East gate. First, we had to check our shoes (which we are familiar with), but we also had to check our bag and our cell phones! Inside is a big, four-sided hallway around central shrine area, with the large intricate pillars, and painted ceilings. But I couldn't get any pictures, because, well, no cell phone. We just meandered and enjoyed! We did seem to be always walking against the flow of people- no matter which way we went!! A foreigner approached us and asked if we had seen the golden temple? Jeff knew what he was talking about and replied no. They conversed some and we found out we could go further inside, just certain shrine areas are off limits to non-hindu, and some shrines even to foreigners.

We exited and started to finish our walk around on the road, when we finally found a food place (the the shops lining around the temple square are selling clothes, souvenirs, or things for worship -flowers, and such). The place was We Chai. We split two sandwiches: 'Chilly' Cheese Toast, and Paneer Sandwich. Also had Peri Peri Fries, and water and Limeca. Good sandwiches, (drizzled with ketchup?). Then back out on the road around temple complex. We were invited into a shop, of course, under the pretense of getting a higher view of whole temple complex, which we did, going up three flights of stairs. Now we saw the Golden Temple, but it was obscured by trees, so no pics of it. There was also a smaller gold dome[(?) Don't know the significance… Questions??]. We finished walking around the temple complex.

We then walked to the Thirumalai Naicker Palace. Originally built in 1636, by commission of King Tirumalai, and maybe designed by an Italian architect. The part still standing is only one quarter of the size of the original. This part that is left is still large scale with columns big enough it would take almost four of my arm spans to hug it! In general it is a cream color with great contrast of bits of brick red coloring. Then more intricately colored/painted ceilings. An inner hall, Natakasla, or dancing hall, had more elaborately decorated columns and a gracefully arched ceiling. It also had some artifacts that were on display. We will come back at night here for a light show.

Now we walked to St Mary's Cathedral. It was strikingly painted white with light blue highlighting, but it was closed – will be open tonight at 530. So will come back here also. That decided, we flag a tuk-tuk and go back to our domicile for quiet time! It is amazing how sensory overloaded you get from just noise – traffic with it's incessant honking. Siesta time!!

We went back out at 530 pm. We flagged a tuk-tuk – it was a shared one! There were already two men in it. But it is not as convenient because he dropped us off quite aways from our destination. But we found a private tuk-tuk and he finished getting us back to St. Mary's Cathedral. It was open so we went inside it had many colored streamers decorating the columns all the way up to the main alter area. (Left up from Christmas?? Again, questions.) The alter was lit up nicely and beautiful. There were a few people inside, doing devotionals to God. We went back out amongst the kids who had just been let out from the school affiliated with the Church.

We walked now back to the Palace for the sound and light show. We paid the small entrance fee and sat for the show. Mosquitos were swarming us all. There were enough mosquitos pretty sure we saw bats swooping in to eat them and aid us! The show started. It was a portrayal of some time of the King Thirumalai. But it did not hold our interest, and the light display was underwhelming. We cut out after 20 minutes (lasted 50 minutes). Also we were still being eaten alive by mosquitos, despite the help of the bats.

Now we went to the temple to check it out at night. It was not lit up! This surprised us. Started to head back to our place, when we found a little stall for a juice and popcorn! That was supper!! 🙂 Then we flagged another tuk-tuk. Traffic was even more crazy, and jammed up. Our driver was aggressive/assertive. He definitely knows the size of his vehicle! WOWZA!!

We made back though and I blogged as Jeff read and edited. What a day!!!