July 26,

Up by 0700, readied, had our Javas with A breakfast – sharing the omelet of onion, tomato, and chicken with a baguette. At 0830, Jeff e-hailed a tuk-tuk (because of the rain today), and eight minutes later we were going to Tamarind Restaurant for our cooking class. Arrived by 0845, the one who booked our tour (the owner?), welcomed us with a cinnamon tea. He said we have a private class!! Yay! As we sipped our great tea, we talked with Sen, the owner’s son. He’s ten and did quite well with his English.

Then a man, Sit, introduced himself as our instructor/chef. At 0900, we loaded up into the back of a truck. At 0910, we arrived at the local market. Sit took us around to various umbrella stalls. It was still raining, so we were dodging the mud puddles as well as water overhead dripping from the tarps and umbrellas – in addition to the normal hustle and bustle of markets. You know, other shoppers, dogs, scooters, etc.😂🤣 He showed us local herbs and gave us a few to try: mint, Lao basil, dill. We saw many veggies. Then over to the meat section, after he warned us of the strong smells and that we were okay with this. Sit showed us local fermented fish being processed for a fish sauce, and let us smell it. We saw the whole parts of various animals – Laotians use the whole animal in cooking/eating. Sit even showed us bile and had us smell it. I’m not a fan of that smell – goes back to nursing days. Lastly, we went by a stall and tried some toasted, seasoned bamboo shoots. We like these, having tried them at Tamarind Restaurant when we had eaten there.

At 0938, the market tour was complete, and we loaded back into the covered truck bed to farm. By 0954 we arrived; were directed to a lovely set up for seeing and doing our food prep; and given an apron to wear. At 1000 we began the lesson.

First, we were to make Jeow, a Laotian dipping sauce. But needed to wash and cook rice for Sticky Rice to use for the sauce. Sit had the rice soaking already (at least five hours). We washed it and then set it to cooking for 20 minutes in a bamboo Lao steaming basket over water. Sit said it would only need “flipping it in the basket” once, then cook it 5 minutes more. Obviously, you could use a steamer. As the rice was cooking, we made our Jeow. I made Jeow Mak Keua- Eggplant Dip; Jeff made Jeow Mak Len- Lao Tomato Dip (Salsa). We were given our main ingredients to roast over coals. Then we peeled those roasted veggies and put into a mortar adding a one finger pinch of salt, MSG, chicken bouillon, lime juice and fish sauce. As we did the finger pinches I could not help but think of Rosie from Sri Lanka! It made me chuckle!! Pound away and the sauce was ready. The rice was done also, so we tried our dipping sauces with the rice. Sit adeptly showed us how the Lao people do the rice into a ball for the dipping sauce. We tried, had fun, but our skill level is poor!

Next, we were instructed on making Mok Pa- Fish steamed in banana leaves. Sit had a Tilapia Fish filet prepped for us, but he said you can use any fish you like. First we had to pound a sauce from various herbs, shallots, onions, and lemongrass in the mortar, with our “pinches” of stuff. This was for the fish to steam in. Then we sliced the fish and stirred in the mortar with that sauce. We set that aside and we took our banana leaves to the charcoal to “soften” them. Sit demonstrated how to put the fish and sauce in the leaves and fold them up making a “small purse”… is what I liken it to. We then “tied” it closed with bamboo thin strips. This then steamed for 15 minutes.

Our next dish was Oua Si Khai- Stuffed Lemongrass. Sit demonstrated how to make a pocket in a lemongrass stalk. That is a cool trick! But flashy, and very effective as a pocket or basket that we stuffed with minced chicken and herbs (once they had been pounded in a mortar). Then the stuffed lemongrass was swirled in an egg bath. The stalk was fried until the meat was cooked. (Sit had some premade Jeow Som- Sour Peanut Dipping Sauce for this.)

This was done for us, as we made our next dish: Koy or Laab- Minced meat and Herb Salad. Sit had us making it with Buffalo. We pounded our herbs, and veg for this and then browned our meat adding it to those herbs. We then scooped it onto a lettuce, veg tray.

Now the best part sitting down to enjoy our Laotian feast! It was fantastic, so good, and way too much! We enjoyed as much as we could, but we weren’t finished yet!!

We lastly set about making Khao Gam- Purple Sticky Rice with Coconut Sauce. First we made coconut milk adding sugar and salt, then add purple rice. Heat this over charcoal until thickens and bubbly. Then we added toasted sesame seeds and Tamarind Jam. We ate this with mango, banana, and dragon-fruit. WOW, WOW, WOW!!

Finished, we thanked and tipped Sit and his helper. Now we left the farm and walked back to our place from the restaurant… in the rain, because we needed the exercise! Back at our place we had a siesta as we were in a food coma! What a great day and good ending to Luang Prabang! Tomorrow is a new chapter.