Kanyakumari, India # 21
January 5
Today is a transition day. We awoke at 06 and readied. Out of our room to breakfast by 0640. We each had a hardboiled egg; some veggie stew; pineapple; a bread similar to papadum, but not crispy; and a Kerala special bread – Ela Ada,(the cook's wife made it for us). It is steamed in a banana leaf, and presented that way! It is made of rice flour and coconut. So good! We were eating as the boat was heading back to the dock. Back in all the mess of houseboats. We finished just as our driver pulled into a spot behind another small houseboat. We gathered our luggage, and tipped our cook and driver. We had to exit through our boat, into and through the other boat to get to dry land. Again we thanked our crew.
Jeff arranged an Uber. We loaded and off to the city of Kottayam. It took about an hour twenty minutes.Traffic is just something else. I am still amazed at the lack of obeying traffic laws! But how can you enforce them with so many people. Questions??
We made it to the train station by 1020. Jeff found the cloak room and we were able to store our two large bags. We now head out, deciding to back track and go to the Bird Sanctuary. We started walking, and found a tuk-tuk. We arrived at the sanctuary by 1115 and bought tickets. (The ticket lady had warned Jeff there were few birds, but what are you going to do, at this point.) It was very underwhelming. We only saw a handful of birds. They were the same we had been seeing on the houseboat. We did not see any migratory ones, and Google had it as peak time! It was actually the opposite time of year for this! The place has turned into a “couples courting” area or a lover's lane. Along the walkway/path couples were either strolling arm in arm, or had found a little cove area off the path. So it was a disappointment, but we did get our steps in. The only other wildlife we did see was a turtle, briefly, as it slid into the water. Finished we hired a tuk-tuk back to the train station.
But just before the station, Jeff had the tuk-tuk pull into Caesar's Palace. They have a four-star restaurant that has AC. We were pretty hot and this felt good. We ordered a Greek salad, and a Hawaiian chicken salad. Jeff ordered a salt lime juice, and we shared a chocolate ice cream shake. Lunch was good and light! Now we went back to the train station, and found the AC waiting area around 240 pm. You have to pay for it but it is worth it. Our train is running behind by 30 minutes. So we figured for a one hour stay. I started blogging. Jeff went and got our bags. Then he went back out for water. When he came back he said we need to go. Our train is arriving. It made up time?? Anyway, we hoofed it to platform two – which means up and over the tracks. (They are working on some escalators, so it is stair time.) We got to the platform just as it was pulling in. Rushed down to our AC car, and in. This trains have a quick turn around! A couple was in our seats. I told him those were are seats. He kept his eyes closed and did not acknowledge me. Another person said, “He is praying.” As soon as he finished; he looked up; said, “Sorry,”; and they vacated the seats. We sat just as the train was pulling out! Our first Indian train, and we are underway!! We saw a few brief glimpses of sunset over the water, through the trees. Otherwise nothing of note. People getting off with more taking their place. The car we are in is pretty standard for anywhere around the world. But there are other cars… well, they are packed! A sea of humanity! These are way cheaper. We saw these full cars as the train arrived. How they get in and out has got to be crazy!!
Anyway, we arrived at Nagercoil, at 910 pm – only 15 minutes late. One man was talking to Jeff for a ride and another came to encroach. We took the first man – a tuk-tuk driver. He took us to another town, Kanyakumari, and to our hotel. As we were unloading a man said no rooms. Jeff assured him we had a reservation. Jeff was pulling up his confirmation, and the guy kept say, “Full, no rooms.” Jeff was like we have had a reservation – he did not even look for or ask Jeff's name. Then the guy was saying, “Too late after ten” – with a clock right there showing nine forty five. Obviously, we weren't getting our pre-booked room. So we went to two other hotels, going back to the first of these two – Sea Face Hotel, and booked for the night. We paid a bit more, than our original booking for it. It was another Hotel fiasco – similar to South Africa, but this hotel was not accommodating at all! Anyway, Jeff had to call through the online booking to make sure we would not get charged for the reservation that did not happen. Then we unloaded, showered, and to bed. What an end to the day! Transition day: boat, car, train, and three tuk-tuks.
January 6
Awoke and readied. Jeff found another hotel online, Sun Rock, and booked for next two nights for the same price as last night at the Sea Face. Out and about around 830 am, since check-out is not until 11. We found the Sun Rock and our booking was okay. Yea! We could check-in at noon, and bring our bags when we check-out of other place. The clerk was much more hospitalitable and accommodating. So that business taken care of, we searched for a laundry facility – no luck. We will have to use the hotel for this. Next on the agenda, breakfast. We went to Sree Punjabi Dhaba. They were advertising Dosa. We were directed to the restaurant, an AC backroom. It had two long tables for seating of eight people each. One couple was at the one table just finishing, so we took the other table. We were given two English menus, and we ordered a Masala Dosa, a thin savory crepe with a potato/pea curry inside, served with small sides of stew, sabar, and chutney; and a Onion Paratha, a flatbread stuffed with onion & savory spices, served with small side of yogurt. Wow! they were both great, so much flavor. Also had a small tea and coffee. Now, satiated, we went to the southernmost point of India! The reason for coming to this town. It was crowded, surprise! 🙂 This is where, supposedly, three bodies of water meet – Bay of Bengal, Arabian Sea and the Indian Ocean. There are two small islands of the coast: one is just big enough for a huge statue, the other, also just big enough for a temple.( We hope to take the ferry crossing to there tomorrow – the water is pretty choppy today). We walked back through the gauntlet of shops lining the streets that lead out to this point. We were not bothered by hawkers, amazingly. We went back to Sea Face: cooled off; we gathered our stuff; and checked out. Hoofed our stuff the 330 feet, and we checked-in to The Sun Rock Hotel. They had our room ready for us and took us up. It is not as big, but the room is being maintained better than our one last night. This is a local hotel – we know this because they do not have toilet paper, but rather only a “Bum Gun”, a sprayer to water-cleanse yourself. That is fine but you are still wet!! Differences in culture – vive la difference??!
We took a siesta, and then snacked for lunch. The laundry did not pan out so we hand washed a few needed essentials in the sink. Jeff double checked the other accommodations he has booked to make sure check-ins and status are okay. I blogged.
We went back out around 430 pm. Walked around, just taking in the sights. It was cooler and very overcast, actually made the walking more enjoyable. People really stare at us here, not sure why. I just smile, and wave at the little ones. There are not many foreigners, but there have been a few. Also have had more people begging here in this town.
We made it down to the ocean and noted the water was quite choppy. The ferry was just shutting down for the day. Jeff noticed it opened at 745 in the am. We will try, rather, I will try to be up so we can do it first thing tomorrow. Actually, walked out on a little spit of a beach, which is the southernmost point (doesn't seem we will have sunset). We were doing a selfie, when a lady offered to take our picture – she took like TEN. Then we walked down the promenade, called Sunset View Point. We found a restaurant, Wine and Dine! Well, we had to check it out. We looked at the menu and decided to eat here. We actually did not get wine. It was $6 to $16 for a four ounce glass of wine! Jeff had a Kingfisher beer, and I had a real Mojito. We also had Lemon Chicken Tandoori with a sour lime, green sauce and a mayo based sauce, Mushroom Tikka with the same green sauce, and Garlic Naan. They gave us little starters of spicy chickpeas and chillies; diced watermelon; and bottled water (all of which we did pay for). Our drinks cost as much as the meal. There was a good sunset as we were eating. It was a great meal, outside watching the activity on the street, and the waves of the ocean. The only problem we had was flies, as in a bunch of them!
Finished we went back to our hotel and cooled off; had some chocolate; and blogged/read. Then showered and bed.