Jodhpur, India #62
February 28
Well, I am behind, but not a lot to say for 26th and 27th. But here goes…
26 — We awoke at 5:30 am, and went out to catch our bus. We had to walk a bit, but my foot did okay. Finally, saw and flagged a tuk-tuk. (They are usually everywhere, except when you need one. 🙂 Just not this early??) Anyway we arrived at the “bus stop.” It is literally, the median between the on-ramp and the freeway!!! Jeff received a call – it was someone, speaking in Hindi. There was a man standing there with us that translated for us. The call was the bus company saying the bus was 5-10 minutes late. Then they called again and said 10-15 minutes late…. It was one hour and 15 minutes late!!! India time, baby! You gotta laugh. We loaded on it at 7:45. 🙂
Oh YEAH! – There was another bus from the same company that Jeff booked the bus though, 5 minutes before our bus. It never even slowed down and we thought it was ours so for a couple of minutes, Jeff, was starting to to scramble for another option!! Anyway, we are in a sleeper berth, upper bunk. It is a combo-two ticket berth. We got on and I propped my foot,laid down and went to sleep off and on. We really sway a lot up here in all directions. You have to stay lying, pretty much due to this. It is supposed to be eight hours. About two hours in, the bus made a pit stop for men to pee on the side of road! No real option for women. So needless to say I was not drinking much. Finally, around two pm a stop for lunch, and much needed bathroom. We split a small bag of chips and each had a mini soda. Boarded again and back on our way. But I got sick after about an hour down the road. I think it was combination of constipation, dehydration, and motion-sickness issues (that I haven't had in a very, very long time).
Well, we finally made it to Jodhpur. But I was punked out and really don't remember too much. We got checked in at Gopal Homestay around four pm, really more a hostel. Unloaded and I took a nap. Supper on the roof, quite a view! Jeff went all the way up, but I couldn't… just wiped out. I only had a banana and tea for dinner. Jeff had Kair Sangri, which is a Rajasthani dish made with dried ker berries and sangri beans and a special bread, Bajri Ki Roti-Chapati, which is a gluten free pearl millet flour. I could not even stay around for his food, due to my upset stomach. He said it was very good and I have to try it when I'm up for it. Sunset was good. Bed around nine.
27 — I was still just exhausted! I only had another banana with the last little bit of peanut butter we had for breakfast. Jeff went up and had Upma with tea. I was able to talk with my sister and Jeff talked with his sister. Jeff ordered me some toast for lunch as he went out and about shopping. When he came back he had light lunch – nuts, cranberries, Ginger cookies; I just had nuts and Oreos. Then I napped some more, and then we went back up on the roof for supper. I finally, was wanting some food. It was another good sunset, and I really looked around my surroundings now, while waiting for dinner. I had pasta with tomato puree and cheese (mild and hit my spot). Jeff had mixed vegetable curry, and roti. We split a pot of tea (which is lemon, honey, and ginger tea). Bed by nine- thirty-ish pm.
28 — Now today! Whew!! We got up and about. I felt great and hungry! BTW, Jeff's bronchitis is substantially better – he finished his antibiotic this morning. His cough is better but still there. 🙁 We did a few hand washables of laundry and our resistance bands. Then went up on the roof for breakfast. We went up to the top – we did this last night, but I really saw it today!! This place has a fantastic view of Jodhpur! The city is laid out at the foot of the rocky up cropping that is the historic Mehrangarh Fort. Some of the buildings of the town have been painted hues of blue color. Almost a feeling of the blue city, Chefchaouen, Morocco. It is stunning, I am finally ready to explore. But I admit it is very noisy! Last night there were dogs fighting at all times; motorbikes (even a of couple Harley sounding ones); and tuk-tuks honking incessantly. But up here on the roof – right now, anyway, (nine-thirty-ish am 🙂 ), it is quiet, except for the chittering squirrel- chipmunks. The weather is sunny with a bit of “haze.” Anyway, we both had omelets: mine was masala with cheese and toast; Jeff's was masala and toast. We split a pot of Masala Tea.
Satiated, we set out & about, and pass by the big clock tower that is right outside the walls of the old part of town (where we are staying). First on the agenda, we had a couple of shopping items we needed. We had better luck, than Jeff did yesterday. We found a pharmacy and they had all we needed. I got refills on my four prescription meds (for about four months) and some more Ibuprofen-Tylenol combination (since I used it all due to my foot). Anyway, total bill was 1,155 Rupees ($ 14!). Really pleased with that transaction, we hired a tuk-tuk – forgetting to get water. We went up to the Mehrangarh Fort (Fort of the Sun).
Again, it is a duo fort/palace! It is impressive and massive!! This seems to be the standard for these fort/palace places. Jeff, bought us entrance tickets. The fort was built in 1459 A.D. We enter through a broad gate with the paintings being restored. Here was an open area with a walkway, like a promenade with another wall – so a wall on each side of us. Then a narrow “Victory Gate.” This was built in 1808, due a hard fought and won battle when forces from Jaipur came and tried (but failed) to take Jodhpur. One of the walls is riddled with marks of cannon balls divots.
Now we enter into the palace, and it has rooms of various exhibits. First, a room of Howdahs, which are basically, the carrying 'saddle' placed on an elephant for the royalty, of course. One was even purple! 🙂 Second, a room of Palanquins, which are basically chairs for ladies of nobility for traveling, and males for special occasions. Usually eight men carried each elaborate chair.
Then we were steered through to a square, or open area, revealing the Daulat Khana, meaning ones house or home, palace. It is now the Mehrangarh Museum. Here, first floor, we see different rooms made up as galleries displaying arms, textiles, decorative arts, and paintings. I could really go into detail here, but would make this blog way too long. Best items of note: the Palanquin used by Akbar; a sword belongings to Akbar; beautiful pieces made with Ivory (best was a jewelry chest); and paintings and some of the paintbrushes they used some 500 years ago made from squirrel tail hairs. Then up a flight of stairs to some preserved woven tapestries and clothing. Some were spun with gold thread. There was also a mirrored room, called the Palace of Mirror, that was a bedroom! Now up the third and final flight of stairs to a few interior rooms of the palace itself. Wowza! These three rooms outstanding – the Sheesh Mahal, the Phool Mahal, and the Takhat Vilas. The rooms were… gorgeous! Amazing details and arched theme carried in the rooms. Just grand and opulent. Then there is also the views overlooking the city of Jodhpur. It had cleared some, not as “hazy.”
Next was the Jhanki Mahal, a colonnade space built in 1860, so the royal women could 'witness events such as coronation ceremonies or royal assemblies taking place in the two courtyards below while themselves remaining hidden from public view.' One could see out, but would not be seen. Displayed here were Jhulas, which are cradles or swings for infants. Then next, we were directed to the Moti Mahal, the Pearl Palace. 'It is one of the oldest surviving period rooms in the fort', and 'was built in the 16th Century.' It was also breathtakingly beautiful. One side is stained glass (not sure if that is original), but this adds interesting color to the room with its mirrored ceiling. The walls are white, color of pearl. As we exit we come to an inner courtyard that really shows off the great arches of this time period.
Now we are sent on a promenade along the wall with a ramp up onto the outer wall. But to go further up only women and children (men have to go back down and use the stairs. Questions??) Anyway, we both arrive at the corner and a small Hindu temple. We walk around it – Killer views and we found the place we are staying, Gopal Homestay!
From this corner, we now turn around and go go back along the promenade and exit the Mehrangarh Fort, but quite pleased with our visit (as we have been at so many of these fort/palaces. We decide to hike down as my foot is doing well. We pass by a statue of a horse with a rider pointing at the fort. The rider is supposed to be the founder of Jodhpur, Rao Jodhaji, and was dedicated in 2017. We walk on down to Jaswant Thada, a cenotaph, built in 1899, by a maharaja in memory of his father and still serves as the cremation ground for the royal Rajput family of Manwar. (The admission price here was less than double for foreigners compared to native Indians, making it one of the better deals for us.) It is set up on a hilltop and is of white marble, and has very nicely kept grounds. It was grand. Inside is an open room with a “portrait” of the past maharajas, dating back to 1250 A.D. (Only the first few were actual pictures, with the rest being almost cartoonish images.) As we were exiting here a very cute set of twin girls came in with their family, I had to get a picture.
From here we hiked down a bit, finding a place for lunch. We found Anna Cafe and Restaurant. They had the restaurant on the rooftop also. We sat, and ordered Alloo Gobhi (potato and cauliflower curry), Chilli Chicken Dry, and x2 roti. It was great. So glad I am okay for eating now!! Finished we hiked the rest of the way back to our place, stopping at one last 'shopping stall,' finding almost the rest of our shopping needs – including tissues!
Back at our place I cranked out this long awaited blog and Jeff did his Jeff thing. We also went up on the rooftop and caught sunset having a mango lassi. What a blessed day!! To be well and enjoy life!