October 14,

I awoke by 0700, and we were up and about. Jeff looked and noticed it had rained and cloudy. It was supposed to be nine degrees colder today and rainy. We had our Javas and breakfast of cereal and yogurts, watching some YouTube.

By 1000, we decided to go on as it was not currently raining, and we would be on a bus if it did start raining. Jeff went out checking the bus card amount and it still had just over half of the money left on it… So it shouldn’t be a problem, going. We caught one bus to get onto the one we wanted- catching the last bus by 1110. We went past where we had gone yesterday passing more small plots of farms with the very black soil & rows of bright green, and small villages after another – all the while catching glimpses of the sea. At 1215, we arrived at the stop we wanted.

We were right in front of the Haenyeo Museum. We did photo ops with statues of famous haenyeo, as we walked to the museum. I am so excited to be here. We have just watched a three part BBC series about a Korean lady who takes on “becoming a haenyeo.” We entered at 1222 and paid 2,200 KRW ($1.54) for the both of us. Haenyeo, literally means ‘sea women.’ They are usually female divers from Jeju, who dive to harvest seafood without breathing equipment!!! They dive with just a wetsuit, diving mask, weights, a weeding hoe, gloves, and fins. They also each have a net attached to a float for their bounty of many kinds of mollusks, seaweed, and other sea life, such as octopus. Their life is such a unique culture, it is recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage! That is pretty cool! The museum entry had many photos of actual haenyeo, and an art picture of a generic haenyeo & sculptures of them.

One part of the museum went over Jeju Women: the Foundation of Jeju’s Economy. According to a placard – Life on Jeju – used to be hard. There was even a scarcity of water on the island and had to be carried everyday to your home. Women engaged in farming, diving for shellfish,as well as household chores, raising families and getting water. The Jeju women are credited – due to diligence – with serving as a foundation for the development of today’s Jeju! Another placard went into some of the beliefs or superstitions of the haenyeo – ‘an old Haenyeo saying goes: “Earn from heavens, spend on earth,” implying that Haenyeo’s diving work is very dangerous.’ It also went into a shrine, a dragon god, shamanic rites, etc.

Another hall went into the Workplace of the Haenyeo. This hall had old diving suits – pre-wetsuits – called mulsojoongi, sojoongi, or sokote; new wetsuits used now in diving; replicas of Bulteok- places where haenyeo changed into their suits to dive, get warm at a fire, and exchange info to other haenyeo about fishing; and the various tools they incorporated, such as various hooks, masks, fins, and nets with a flotation attached.

Yet another hall went into Five Haenyeo Fighters Against Japanese Imperialism. Five haenyeo, who claimed leadership of haenyeo so some 30 others would be released from prison as they stayed imprisoned for 6 months in 1932. They helped lead the anti-Japanese movement. In fact, the haenyeo have written history of their exploits long before… from 1629!

The last hall I’ll mention is the Art Exhibition. This hall had display pieces of replica flotations and pictures made by haenyeo as well as more candid photos.

Whew! At 1340 we left the diving women’s museum! We both enjoyed it. Now we boarded the bus at 1355. But our card had insufficient money on it. Jeff had to go to the local ‘Nice 2 CU’ convenience shop, and recharge it. Then we caught the next bus at 1405. Again we passed lots of plots of farms. By 1425, we arrived at the easternmost point. There is a hill to climb but climbing up it was too steep for this late in the day. We decided to go ahead with lunch. We stopped at Seongon Jinmi Restaurant. We had Haemul Ramyun- seafood ramen and Godeungeo- grilled mackerel; six side dishes; and I had a Soju, and Jeff had a Beer. We paid 42,000 KRW, or $29.51.

We caught an express bus back at 1510, arriving back by 1630 and walked back to our place via a Paris Baguette, for some bread and cream cheese, which was supper. We never did have rain issues. What a superfine day!