March 2

Awoke this morning with no real plans except to explore! We readied and late to breakfast (since we had eaten so much last night). I ordered a “lamon” (supposed to be 'lemon') and honey pancake; Jeff had the Upma. So one was savory and filling, the other sweet and filling, both excellent! Great start to the day. We did converse with two women and one man, all from India – they are here for the weekend. They were incredulous about our story.

After breakfast, we went back to our room and did… laundry, our handwashables. The day is cool and windy, so we went out and did our exploring. Walking around, we trekked back down and out of the fort area. I really looked around because I did not look about coming in yesterday – it was all I could do hiking up with luggage on the slickish stoned pavement. You can see the wall work is restored. This is not bad, just different. I kept telling myself, and remembering it is a living fort. The stone of the walls is sandstone color, a deep yellow, brown-orange. Some of the main archways into the fort are decorated, but not all. Outside the fort, you remember this is desert area. The sandstone is the color of the desert, it fits. Now more traffic, horns, and just chaos that is India's driving. We did go to some of the old rich merchants houses. One home we were invited into to see from the roof. We went in, knowing that we were going to be persuaded to buy something. From the roof we found where we wanted to go. The views are great, but we have better from our Zostel hostel. Back down, we bowed out of the pressure to buy their fabric items.

We went to Kotharis Patwa Haveli. It is a pay house, and it is the first of a lined street of these! They are so intricately decorated and just massive, with their fronts of 3, 4, and 5 stories. The street is almost mostly in shadow at noon, due to this sun blocking from these top heavy house fronts. The tops of the houses almost seem to kiss each other as they overhang their base floor structure. Anyway, we went in. This house entry is just over the top: multi-colored and mirrored, shiny, tiled walls, arches and ceiling. Next was the house private temple then directed to stairs that lead to an open courtyard with the house built surrounding it on four levels. Each level is balcony style with the same intricately carved balustrades and window coverings. Just a lot for the eyes to see and you to absorb, a definite display of wealth. Then we meandered through various rooms: dressing room, bedroom, kitchen, dining room, drawing room, and sitting room. They were all grand and had furniture and various items on display. Next, we are led up on the roof. Again great views with even some nicely carved unknown small rooms. Back down through the stories of the house to some set up side rooms with displays of Indian musical instruments, the Indian Postal System, and vintage cameras, toys owned by the house occupants. Lastly I'll mention, there was an empty room with inlaid mother of pearl on the walls. Just beautiful. The wealth displayed here is incredible. These were not Kings, but wealthy merchants.

Finished, we just wondered back along the fort walls, on the streets aligning it. We found a place for lunch Restaurant Kabab Corner.  We ordered Chicken Shish Kebabs; French Fries; two Roti; and a Rajasthani Specialty – Rajasthan is the area of India we are in – Ker Sangri. Ker Sangri is hard to describe, but here goes. It is made with dried ker berries and sagri beans, taste and texture is almost like a green bean casserole with a tomato base, but so much more with indian spices. That's the best I can do. It is very good – Jeff had this the night I just had a banana. He has been waiting for me to experience it. I'm glad I was able. 

Right after lunch, we went out and was approached (again) for a desert experience. We declined but talked about it. We walked ten feet maybe, and were approached again. We went into his shop to check it out. Jeff really wants to do this. I'm not as gung-ho, but willing. We did say we were not interested in riding camels – been there done that. Needless to say, we did book an afternoon/evening tour for tomorrow! I became more interested as he described the lay out of the excursion.

Now we just meandered the rest of the way around the fortified wall, stopping to get Jeff more cough medicines, as his cough is lingering. Then back into the fort and our place. Went to one of our hostels overlooks for sunset and saw the same trio from breakfast. We all sat and watched the sunset. Supper was light pumpkin seeds and raisins. Bed by ten.