Galle, Sri Lanka #38
June 8,
We got around and started packing our stuff. Amazing how it all gets spread around after a month, and we don't have that much! We took a break for breakfast – cereal and yogurt. Then finished up packing and texted our host. Jeff booked an Uber. It arrived – a minivan… Wow, okay! We don't have that much stuff!!😂 As we were leaving, we texted Rosie to let thank her again. She hadn't been told that we had come and picked up our curry powder. I think she was disappointed to not have seen us! Anyway, on the road by 1030. He took us by way of the highway. It is super nice! It is also a toll road. But getting there, was a small road! We saw so much interior that has been flooded due to the monsoon rains, saw more mountainous area, and saw, well, more just everyday living!
It took us 1.5 hours and we arrived at Galle, and our new accommodations – The Seagreen. As we got out of the vehicle, a small monitor lizard took to a gutter. We were checked in to the hotel and unloaded our stuff in our room. It is very spacious and windows are sealed – meaning no critters! Anyway, we explored – to the roof! Great views of the green sea from Seagreen🤭!! There were some locals enjoying. Then we had lunch. We ate at the hotel, having a spread! It was Rice and Curries. We were given a big portion of rice and different curries of – chicken, fish, green beans, pumpkin, mango, and jackfruit. There was also a carrot-onion-coconut salad and Dahl. We also had poppadom and drinks – Jeff had his ginger beer soda, and I had my watermelon juice. Wowza! It was great and the cook came out. She did not speak, but she appreciated our liking her preparation!
We head out of the hotel, which is inside of Fort Galle, on walkabout, exploring. We go across the street and here is some of the fort's ramparts or walls – where the locals we just spotted were! The ocean crashes into these fortifications. It is amazing they have withstood this. Now history time.
Sri Lanka was on the Spice trading route with Galle having a natural harbor area, thus it became a major port. The Portuguese came in 1500 to 1600's and took over this area – conquering it – for the trading. They then were responsible for the foundations of this fort, to protect their trading. Now the Dutch conquered the Portuguese (same song next verse, kind of thing). But I talk about it because the Dutch really built up this fort. As per Galle Heritage Foundation signage – “massive ramparts…with bastions positioned at strategic points in sea and land fronts. It reflects the fusion of Dutch fortification engineering knowledge and native construction techniques, utilizing local materials and manpower.” Then the British took over from the Dutch and did some more modifications, especially during WWII. So the fort is a montage of cultures and a real cool part of history in Sri Lanka. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site and said to be the “best intact representation of a Dutch fort in Southeast Asia.”
Along the ramparts there were many points of interest and the very informative signage by the Dept. of Archaeology and Galle Heritage Foundation relates this. One of these points was the Powder Magazine – No.1. It has an entrance fee of 1,000 Rupees ($3.28) each. This “underground structure…records suggest, during Dutch occupation…83,000lbs of gun powder was stored here.” It has been well maintained and all inside was replicas, and could be touched. There was a cannon with a cut away so you could see the inside. It was loaded with a “gun powder pack” and a “12 lb. cannon ball” – even having the 'stamper-thing' and a “wick”. This made a great visual! One of the best I can recall seeing!! The ticket lady, from the entrance, gave us and two Russian ladies a bit of a guided tour. She actually called the muzzle-loading musket, a handgun; and the handgun, a musket. Jeff and I both explained she had them reversed. She accepted the knowledge – humbly and gratefully! This are qualities of the Sri Lankan people I have noticed. She taught us and we taught her. It was nice. We struck up conversation with the Russian women after she was called away, and we left the structure continuing to talk with them some.
Next point of interest was the Star Bastion, and the first of three main bastions (out of a total of 14 bastions). There would have had many cannons here, having been feed gunpowder from the Powder Magazine we just visited. This bastion was called differently by the Portuguese and differently by the Dutch, when captured from the Portuguese, but was renamed by the Dutch to its current name, Star Bastion, after much renovation, making two terraces. It is a big point along the wall. We walked further and came to the next and a second, major bastion, Moon Bastion. This bastion was even bigger! The Portuguese built the original, basically the Dutch enhanced it and gave it the name, Moon Bastion, and the English built a 25.3m (83 feet) tall clock tower here in 1883. (The sign here is not very legible, so that's all I have for the Moon Bastion). The Clock Tower signage mentions the clock was brought from London and erected and dedicated to a local Dr.- Dr. Peter Anthonisz. Here we bought tickets for entrance into the Gallery on the Moon Bastion, it was 750 Rupees each ($2.46). This was a gallery of local and colonial paintings of different times/events in Sri Lankan history from just before colonial captivity to Sri Lankan liberation. It was underwhelming for me. Next, third, and last bastion, I'll mention- the Sun Bastion. This one is the smallest and the most easternly of the three along this northern stretch of the wall. Again, it was built by the Portuguese, originally and damaged heavy during the Portuguese and Dutch battle to control Sri Lanka. The Dutch rebuilt it, greatly. Then we came to another bastion that has a belfry, and close proximity to the gate from which we entered the fort.
From here we stepped off the wall and back across the main street that parallels the fortifications. We went to the Galle National Museum. It was informative and had three languages on all signage. The third was English (the other two could be Singhalese and Tamil???). There were four distinct galleries. It was worth the 550 Rupees ($1.81) each. It had Ivory, Ebony, tortoise shell, and porcupine spine artifacts, as well as handmade lace doilies, and jewelry. There was Sri Lankan made, fantastic, wood furniture pieces. I felt was a good National Museum – related to Galle history. Then we wondered and saw the oldest colonial church of Galle, the Dutch Reformed Church, from 1755 (before USA was well, USA!). We also saw the All Saints Church, from 1871, an Anglican Church. There was also a Mosque nearby and a Buddhist Stupa in view and later we saw a Hindu Temple. Many religions are represented and get along here in Galle.
We went back along the wall/fortifications, seeing the Galle lighthouse. It was built in 1938, by the English. It was a late addition to the fort, because it replaced the Dutch original one (from a different location) that was destroyed by a fire. The lighthouse was not open for tours, but seems to have a Fresnel lens – not sure on that though. Then walked on, around to a bastion that has a little rock island in front of it. The island has a couple of palm trees on it, but that was it – nature being where it can. Also at this bastion you can see – more prevalently – the coral used to help construct the walls. Lastly, was build on a natural rock jut-out. Then we exited out of the fort area through the second gate. (There are two gates one was built by the Dutch and the other by the British, I think.) We went and checked out the train situation at the train station – for Monday when we leave Galle. Then we found a big Cargill and bought some ice and Arrack (you can't buy liquor at a store inside the fort and we are just outside of it).
Now we head back to our place and watch a bunch – like 25 kites flying right above us from our rooftop. We watch the sunset, eat some fruit, and enjoy kites. Great end to the day!