March 31,

We were both up by 0730. We had our Javas with a breakfast of the last of our pizza and yogurt. We readied, packed, and checked out by 0950. Goodbye tiny house! (Not for us!) Today we went back to El Calafate. We saw a couple of hitchhikers but they had so much stuff! We passed them and got gas. Jeff had the attendant put in 10,000 ARS worth of gas. (It seemed more expensive, so we will fill up later.) We discussed the couple and decided to go back the half a mile, or so and pick them up. Jeff managed to get their stuff mostly in the trunk, but one bag had to go in the seat with them. They thanked us and introduced themselves, Antonio and Denise, from Italy. They were in their mid twenties and had been in El Chalten for three months. By 1010 we were going back to El Calafate.

We saw the guanacos (llamas) again. They look cold , as the wind whipped their fur(?). Also we saw the same horse herd – pretty sure, it was them because of a grey one with a white face. There were more soaring Crested caracara; and more cattle. Finally, we saw a single rhea. The day was not as bright, sunny as when we did this drive four days prior. But the water color is still stunning in hues of blues. The wind was pushing us the first leg back so Jeff was not as affected while driving.

As we arrived in El Calafate it was about 1230. The Italian couple wanted to be dropped off at a gas station per their request as their bus wasn’t for four more hours. So Jeff pulled in and finished filling up the tank completely with gas since we were there. The pump showed 29 liters for 53,215 ARS, which was 7.66 gallons for $38.49 or just over 5 bucks per gallon. As we started to leave the couple gave us two kinds of Huemul, a chocolate covered dessert that is eaten in Argentina. We had not had them, so we thanked them, as they thanked us for the ride.

The sun had come out and we decided to go to the Glaciers National Park first before going to our new home. As we were leaving the other end of town, we picked up a group of three, young men, hitching to going to the park as well. They were from France, 22 years old, and here for five months on a gap year. What fun! They were great to talk with and they wanted to know all about our travels- firing so many questions we were having a time keeping up!

We arrived at the park entrance and Jeff showed our electronic Flexipass Ticket. The boys had to buy their tickets, but this was faster than trying to get our e-tickets pulled up! Anyway, we all loaded up and drove to the main attraction – the Glacier Perito Moreno. The drive, similarly reminded me of the drive to get to Yosemite Valley, when you come up to the viewpoint… The park has built up an extensive walkway system for views of the glacier. We arrived here, parked, and parted ways with the men, wishing them well. Then we caught the free shuttle bus to the walkways. Wow 😮!! The glacier was beautiful! Could you get tired of seeing these??? So many colors are present – a whole hue of blues and even some pinks blending into craggy, gnarly points and crevasses that make up the wide glacier grinding down to the lake it becomes. Breathtaking and magnificent!! Placards at viewpoints give facts and stories. One factual sign listed the Glacier front heights from the shortest crags – approximately 40m (131 feet) – to the highest points – approximately 70m (230 feet). At one of the stops we saw a decent sized calving event! Then we heard the thunderous breakage and plunge. I had forgotten about the delay…that is so cool! We were noticing the sun being muted by clouds rolling in and it started raining, of course it did. And hence we left. But so glad we came!

We drove back into the town around 1.5 hours 49 miles. Along the way we saw a rainbow unfold. It had one of the brightest strips of purple, I can remember seeing for quite some time. We arrived and stopped at La Tolderia Resto/bar for “lunner.” We had two empanadas – one lamb and one guanaco – as starters. This was our first experience of Guanaco meat. It was more tough, but not as gamy as we thought it might be (but it was mixed with herbs in the empanada). We also had a Wok de Cordero or Lamb Wok dish, a stir-fry of lamb, veggies and rice topped with sesame seeds; and a Calabaza Rellena or Stuffed Pumpkin (actually a butternut squash) with cheese and veggies. We had a Casa Ambrosia Malbec wine from Mendoza. We paid 89,980 ARS or $64.91.

Finally we went to our new home for four nights. It was a proper place, and seemed spacious after our tiny house. We can definitely chalk that off the list to not do again. Anyway, this place has an open dining, kitchen and living room with a seperate bedroom. Nice and the heaters were working well! We unloaded and settled in.