October 14, Tour Day 3

I forgot to mention that last night, while waiting until we could talk with our church, I did go out and see the nearly full moon. I was able to catch it despite the haze, but pictures did not come out. It was lovely.

0810 talked with my sister. Breakfast at 0830. Had X3 mini pancakes, a fried egg, and “wing” beans (a four sided 5″ stalk) with a packaged salt mix. These beans are known by many other names and were tasty – hard to describe. Also, I had my first black drip coffee, dripping as I impatiently waited. It just takes too long. Jeff had a tea.

0915 started out. First stop was on side of road for photo op. Great views of the valley again. But this time there was a motorbike loaded up with grass on the side of the road. Jeff and I did a spontaneous photo op. The grass was feed for the animals, according to Em. We thought that was it, but then Em went down into someone's house/field. The family was just finishing harvesting, or taking a break. Em talked with them quite a bit. I got some pictures of the water buffalo and chickens with chicks in the field as they were talking. When they finished talking, I asked Em if it would be okay for me to take pictures of them. They okayed the pictures and even posed. What fun! Genuine people, but still in their element, even though posed. Then as we three were heading back to the bikes, I stopped and took pictures of some “sticky rice”, Em said. Then Em and the lady were talking again. I was taking in the orange tree and Jeff recognized the pomelo tree. I asked Em if they were oranges and pomelos. She said they were. And Em and the lady had another discussion. Then the lady proceeded to cut orange after orange and gave them to us, one she cut up and served – right from their tree. She also gave us a pomelo from the other tree, that she peeled and cut up also. Both were soo good!! Em then tried to give her money, but she wouldn't take any. I was so humbled, as was Em I think! What an experience!

Even though it was overcast (more so today than yesterday), it was still great to see the Karst topography and be awed by it. We stopped for another photo op, I got the three “man” team to pose. They course turned to get a posterior view–what's up with that by the way?? Questions!?! Anyway, at that spot I distinctly remember counting eight different layers of Karst ridge outlines. That was like a shazaam moment for me. We were in the thick of “Karst Country”, so to speak. I even had a Deja vu — to being on the Yangtze River and it being hazy and seeing the Karst Mountains – as I recall that was my first time.

Now we moved on and came upon an actual harvest going on. WOW! We thought we were going to be too late for this. There was a line of at least ten or eleven people, all of them going at it… hand harvesting. It does still happen this way in much of the world! I asked Em if it was one family. She replied it was a family and neighbors. They all pitch in and help each other with the harvest!!! Vietnam has some of the best rated rice in the world! If love counts in that, then I can see how this would be true. There was a machine in the field, but it was being worked on. Em said it was to help separate the rice from the stalk. Hope they getting working soon, because the workers were way ahead! Just saying… kind of the opposite of the workers are few!!!

Now we load back up and just drive, soaking in more scenery if that is possible! At 1215, we stop at Diem Hen 81 for lunch. We of course had a pork belly dish with tomatoes and green onions- seems to be a theme; some fried tofu fixed the same way as the pork dish (I think I had forgotten the tofu dish yesterday – it's forgetable, we are not fans); pumpkin soup – first time; pumpkin slices; greens with garlic; omelette; and rice. I really enjoyed the pumpkin dishes! We also had more of the fresh oranges! We also had a great peach and lemongrass tea made by Cozy.

When we finished, we took a small rest, then Em announced we were going for a hike. What? Her idea is of a hike… to me it's a mountain climb (she has got to be 30-35 years my junior). We started out crossing the road and saw our first goats. The first part of the “ascent” was okay. Some workers were actually working on a rock pathway some of the way. Then we went through a gate – to me this was an omen. Gates are a barrier to differentiate– no passage!! LOL! But I was right in my processing. The hike turned into the ascent here. Em said it was only about 20% more. I was not convinced. Jeff and Em went on. I did not. I waited their return right there and was happy with this decision – my knees were elated. But that was the view of where we were going next. Jeff was excited! We went back down and loaded up.

We are at Khau Coc Cha Pass. Now we head down the motor bikers dream! It is a 15 curved, serpentine, switch-backed road descending down form the pass. Wowza! What a feat of construction! And they were still working on it near the bottom. I am sure Jeff was having a blast and would have wanted to go faster, but I was glad Mr Chinh was in the lead to keep a bit slower, and steady pace!! I wonder how many feet we descended with those 15 winding curves!?!
Long afternoon shadows now come into play as we meander on. The sun tries to break through all the clouds. The Karst Mountains are more a “normal” mountain range now, but still beautiful. We pass through more valleys and see more terracing plots hugging those mountains. Then we stop at another pass area and go walking into a plot or two of harvested rice. Then we load back up.

We come into a pretty substantial town/city–Bao Lac. We pass by many street vendors selling fruit or vegetables. We stopped for gas and then go to our hotel, Thuy Duong. We get into our room and discover the hardest bed either of us have slept in. I'm even uncofortable with it, but it's only one night, right?! We cleaned up and met up for supper at 1900. We taxi(due to rain) to a Hot pot place – Phong Do, Lau – Bia Hoi; which Google translated as Form, Hot Pot – Drafts. We were just in, sat, and started the flame for the Hotpot – when it started raining again. The roof leaked a bit on Jeff so we had to move the table – flaming Hotpot and all. We had a platter of differing meats; stuffed bamboo stalks; and sweet potato slices. A basket of greens also! Mr Tien, Em's driver; Mr Chinh and Em proceeded to toss food into a pot of boiling tomato/broth. We were also served pickled cabbage and fresh fried extruded cassava chips – think of Cheeto puffs and Funyuns texture snacks – with a bowl of pate. We had a great meal. The rain stopped at some point and when we finished we walked back to our hotel for the night.

What a glee, was day three!