March 24,

We were around by 0800, having our Javas and breakfast of French toast. We probably have the most variety we have had for toppings: peach jam, raspberry jam, PB, and Nutella. So it was quite hard to choose! I ended up going half pieces so I could maximize my choices!! 😂 The weather is still “coolish” in the morning. I feel that fall is in the air. We did another load of laundry and hung it out to dry. Morning turned to afternoon. We made pasta with a lemon cream sauce for lunch. It was good but we did not have a thickening agent, so it was more a – lemon milk juice (which doesn’t sound as good). We had plans but not until 1530. So I blogged and Jeff read/planned.

We set out early, walking, because we kept hearing drums and the Argentines shouting. We thought it was another protest… but today is their Day of Remembrance for Truth and Justice. It “commemorates the victims of the Civic-military dictatorship of Argentina,” as per Wikipedia. There was a time when the military took over the government and many people just disappeared…as in a notable number of people! The military was defeated in 1976, and the country remembers those people and the events of 1976 on this day. It’s a significant 50 years mark this year! As we walked to our destination, we crossed through many groups that had names of people that were some of the disappeared ones on signs, t-shirts, and banners. There were many other country flags and banners. A number of streets downtown were blocked off for pedestrians only. And the air was more of a feeling of a “parade-type affair”. It seemed that events were just starting, but we had an agenda to keep so we left. Jeff said, and I agree, it is not of personal significance to us anyway.

On our way we passed by a very ornate building – it was an old water pumping station from 1887! It was beautiful!! Too bad we didn’t know about it. It has a museum. Anyway, we went to a bookstore, but not just any bookstore! El Ateneo Grand Splendid is touted as being the second most beautiful bookstore in the world! It helps that it was a stunning old theater prior. It was very much a running bookstore and people were looking through books and vinyl records to buy. But a large percentage were tourists – just looking at the grandeur of the building. What was the stage of the old theater is now a vibrant, busy cafe. We went up into what used to be the double balcony areas. The bookstore did a masterful job repurposing the space while keeping the theater look intact. We had to leave to make our 1530 destination.

At 1515 we arrived at Recoleta Cemetery. We had to purchase tickets to get in! This was 30,000 ARS ($21.84) each. Jeff had booked us on a “free” guided walking tour that costs 14,000 ARS ($10.19) each.🤔🤷🏻‍♀️  Anyway the total was basically $32 each! With our extra time before the tour, we went into the Catholic Basilica – Iglesia de Nuestra Senora del Pilar (Our Lady of the Pillar) right next door. It was airy, and all white inside which made the embellished, gold guild of the Altar and various side chapels more prominent.

It was time for the tour, so we went and joined. When we went inside – it was like a small city itself, and our guide, Mariana, said just that. Each plot is a mausoleum of fine marble, granite, or statues and looks like they are buildings with avenues that we walk by to admire their finery. Mariana said obviously the burial chambers are of wealthy families. It sounds like it was a situation of “keeping up with the Jones,” each trying to outdo the others. Anyway the cemetery started in 1732 tied into the Catholic church. But in 1822 it was converted to the first public cemetery in Buenos Aires. Mariana took us on a two hour tour through the grounds of many notable people: Argentine presidents, military commanders, Nobel prize winners, etc. The most notable and controversial grave is that of Eva Peron. There is a love-hate relationship between Argentines with her. Mariana talked through this. Eva was a helper of the common worker and she was herself common. The graves here are of the wealthy of Buenos Aires and some did not want her remains buried here…still to this day.

Anyway, the families take care of the mausoleums and have to pay yearly taxes. If a site becomes abandoned, after some years/decades the government steps in and empties the “building” of the remains and resells the “plot-” that can be bigger than many tiny homes today – at a hefty expense. If the current mausoleum is irreparable, a new structure may be erected. She showed us one currently under construction…the city does limit height now.

The tour ended and we caught a bus back, semi-close to us. Due to street blockages we had to get off early and walk the rest of the way. There were still lots of people meandering and quite a bit of litter strung about, but most “festives” seemed done. We ended the day with a supper at our place of a Tarta de Fugazzeta Rellena- that is a pie/tart of cheese topped with onions.