NOT the Taj Mahal!

     February 8

Up and leisurely readied. (Jeff had booked a nine am city tour with the guy here at the hostel.) Today we did eat at TIF. We each had an Uttapam. It is described as a type of dosa, but thicker. I thought of thinnish crust of pizza. Jeff had tomato and onion toppings, I had onion and cheese. It was served with sambar and chutney. I had my coffee, Jeff had masala tea.  

Finished we went back to our room and grabbed our bag, then went out and loaded in our tuk-tuk for our tour today.Our first place on this city tour began at Panchakki, which is a water mill. It is dated from 1744 A.D. Immediately, I thought it is just older than America, being a country! The mill has an underground water channel that starts 10 kms (six miles) away from a mountain. The water arrives here and spins a flanged horizontal fan that then spins the mill. It still works, but not sure of its efficiency – the grinding stones do not touch all the way around now. Anyway, the water is clear and seems clean, which is rare. Also at this site is a very large banyan tree that is 600 years old! The tree makes this water reservoir, mill area seem like a little park. There is a mosque and a tomb here also, mentioned only because it is included in the ticket price. We loaded back up and on to next part of tour.

We arrive at Soneri Mahal, which means “Golden Palace.” It was a building built by one of two brothers who found favor and served the king (from what I understand). Anyway, this palace is a historical building, and now a museum. Very small amounts of painting on the interior remain, but they have enough there is some replication paintings on some arches, but not covering up the old. Then there are carvings, brass idols, plaster idols, and a great full size partial wooden “temple” that dates from 1800's. Local young artists/students all over inside making drawings. It has received its name from the golden painted interior walls. It would have been over the top in its heyday! We weren't allowed to take pictures.

Next we were driven to Aurangabad Caves. These are Buddhist and there are twelve caves in three groupings (#1-5, #6-9, and then #10-12). Also these caves date from 3rd Century to 7th Century. Our driver took us to #1-5 caves first. We started at #5  This cave temple was just basically a carving of a Buddha with some almost wholly white-painted carved figures around it. Cave #4 had an alcove area that was just discovered in 1977. It had a god sitting on a lion pedestaled chair. The actual cave #4 was a two story tall stupa. Then cave #3… this was the most impressive of these five caves for me. Huge open area with rows of pillars differently carved and hints of paint still pop. You just get a fill of more 'completeness' to the cave temple. Cave #2 had some great carvings, with a great central carved teaching Buddha. The side walls also  had great carvings of teaching and meditating Buddhas (couple of other seated Buddha positions I don't know what they represent). Cave #1 had a few good carvings but was not completed.

Then we went by our tuk-tuk to the second section – #6-9. Cave # 6&7 had great carvings. #6 had an alcove with Ganesh, the elephant (and a Hindu) god, next to a Buddha (obviously, Buddhist). Maybe an attempt to merge religions??Questions?? Anyway, #7… well this maybe the best of the Aurangabad Caves. It has a verandah, with a chapel, a central sanctum, and cells for the monks – it was a monastery.

Then I had an brief interlude – parakeets. They were flying above us to the rock face and chipping at it with their bills (salt??). They are so brilliantly green with blue tails. Caves #8,9 were not completed much at all. #8 was started as a two story temple, but second story is not accessible now. #9 has an unfinished reclining Buddha and a few other great carvings. There was an impressive vein of quartz in a pillar of this cave. We went to cave #10, but it is only a hewn rock area- no carvings. so we went back to our tuk-tuk. (#11,12 are not accessible at all.)

Next we were driven to Bibi-Ka-Maqbara. It is a mausoleum, built in 1651-1661;  and it resembles the Taj-Mahal (which was built in 1631-1653). It was built for Aurangzeb's wife. He was a Mughal Emperor. Dilras Banu Alias Rabia-ud-daurani is the wife and lady in the mausoleum. The building is believed to have been commissioned by their son, Prince Azam Shah.  SHOO!! That being said we paid and went in the mausoleum grounds and up into to the mausoleum. It is grand looking… until you get close. Unfortunately, it is not being kept up. We toured around and took many pictures. Of course, we had locals ask for many selfies. (This is still a mystery to us. Questions?? I have so many regarding this behavior.) Anyway, one thing that Jeff and I both thought would improve this peaceful place – have the fountains going. The pools and fountains are devoid of water completely! 

We loaded back into our tuk-tuk and were taken to a silk factory. (We misunderstood what the driver said, or else we would have declined this leg of the tour.) Anyway, we had a tour of looms making fabric scarves/material. It is always fascinating for me to see these (even though these were not in action). After the walk through, we were shown some finished pieces to buy, of course. Jeff stopped the guy after he had pulled out ten of so pieces. We bowed out. He knows the scene and asked us to rate the shop and experience on Google. We will because we did enjoy the little tour.

Now we loaded back up and had our guy take us to a grilled chicken place. He mentioned the same place we went to last night. That was fine. So we arrived a Yalla Yalla. We had two starters: french fries, and stuffed mushrooms. They were stuffed with very flavorful pureed-veggie filling; skewered alternating with bell peppers, and onions; then coated with a tikka sauce; and grilled. So good. Our main was grilled Tikka Chicken. It was good as well and a little zing. There was side salad that we finished with that was very zinngggy! Whew!! It was the first time I could not finish a dish here in India due to heat of spice!!! We got the caramel custard again for dessert.

So we walked back to our hostel and well, I blogged… yada, yada. We plan on a light supper. Tomorrow is moving on day. We enjoyed the site-seeing in this area of India immensely!