January 6

We had to set the alarm for me – Jeff was up, readied by 07, but no driver! Jeff did a Whatsapp message x2, then finally called him. He was 30 minutes late, not a good start. (As we were waiting, a guy at the hostel was trying to get our business, and almost did!) Anyway, when our driver arrived and we got in, he apologized and sited his “medical condition” for the delay. We did not inquire into this – it would have been the polite thing to do, but we were still a bit upset.

Anyway, we were underway. It's a 2.5 hr trip. We are going to Ajanta Caves. 25 minutes out of town, and driver, Dilip, stopped at gas station and asked for 1500 rupees ($18) for gas. Okay, but really?? We have to keep a running total to deduct this from the agreed overall price.Our driver asked if we had had breakfast. (No we hadnot) He stopped at a road restaurant, Hotel Sai. It was not a hotel, but it was great food. Dilip redeemed himself. We each had a masala dosa with sambar (best tasting one for me) and a peanut chutney. Jeff had tea; me, my coffee (I had made it at the hostel). We finished and continued to the caves.

Along the way we saw lots of corn fields, some wheat or grain, and lots of cotton, including a cotton loading area (a mill??). Also the road seems to be in great then very bad. There is a lot of diverting for construction, without anyone working? Questions???

We finally arrived at the caves just after ten. At the entry, we had to pay 15 rupees each (a pitiful 20 cents, but it is the “nickel and diming” that gets irritating). It was an “amenity fee.” Our driver let us out to go through gauntlet of shops to a shuttle. Here we had to pay for 4km ride. (Again nickel and dime). But found out this is used by locals as an actual bus route! There is a lady from our Zostel on the bus. We struck up a small conversation with her. She is from KANSAS! Olathe, Kansas it's a small world. 

We unloaded through more shops, then turned a corner and WOW! Caves, amazing. First impression was of the Mesa Verde Ruins. The caves are carved (completely man-made) into a rock, cliff area that wraps around in a horseshoe valley with a river bed down below. Very picturesque! But similarities stop there.

Now the info. The earliest caves date from 200 B.C., but span some time. These Ajanta caves are 'famous for their painted murals which are the finest surviving examples of ancient Indian art…'  The caves were made by Buddhist monks, and there are thirty of them in various stages of completion and preserved paintings. Of the thirty, there are about five or so no one can get into; there about five that are awesome with some form of preserved paintings and carvings; and then there are a few with stupas.

We weaved our way through the best ones first (did not know how long we would be). As you came up to each cave you had to remove your shoes. These first few we were almost speechless. To even have paintings left at all is a wonder, and then to be able to see some detail in that painting – well, it was priceless. After seeing the best of the painted ones, we backtracked through and saw the carved ones and the stupa ones. Fantastic and in some of these last ones you can see traces of white, a little red, maybe black (seems very dark green), and rare hints of blue paint. We went into all we could. Of, course some were just the main cave without any carvings, or paintings and had little cubicle rooms for the monks to stay in. There were also a couple of caves that were started, but not finished. This made it easier to see how the monks made the caves. And a side, we saw monkeys. Cheeky little monkeys, always scouting for a handout.

Finished, with all we could absorb, we headed toward the exit and crossed the bridge to lead out. But first we took the less traveled steps up to a lookout, panorama view place. Once up the overall view was incredible! (One of the times I wish we had a drone.) We left the lookout and went back down toward the main exit. But before we crossed back on another bridge we saw a little chipmunk-type squirrel, that came within a foot of us (obviously has been fed); and then a green parakeet swooped in front of us. It was the closest view of one of these we have seen. Exceptional! It was like a blessing on our good day!

We crossed the other bridge leaving Ajanta Caves; meandered the shops; and loaded on the shuttle at 1:40 pm. Arrived to go through more shops to the car park and found Dilip. We reluctantly but happy for our day, climbed in the car and did the drive back to Aurangabad, which seemed longer. We arrived at our Zostel Hostel (I love that rhyming name) around five pm.

I quickly started a blog, then we showered and went out to supper at an open area of couple of little restaurants – Chaap Wala, and Khau Galli Chaat House. We had a pineapple milkshake, a lime juice water; with mains: Garlic Chili Noodles and Paneer Masala Chaat; and a couple of butter rolls. Finished we went back to hostel. I completed this blog and Jeff read, while we had a bite of chocolate!