February 19th,

Awakened to an announcement by Chad at 0530 this morning. Our first adventure today is a go…a landing in Fortuna Bay. Twenty minutes call for the first four groups- not us this time. We grabbed a toasty ham and cheese and juice for a light breakfast.

At 0725, we were our Zodiac, zooming to shore. The guides had set up cones for us to trek along. We exited the Zodiac and followed those before us. What an experience to hear the fur seal pups calling out, some trying out weak roars or barks and challenging us. Then the off resonances, almost harmonica like, speaking of the penguins. It was a different kind of symphony that was for sure. We hiked; crossing a small trickle of a stream; then up to the elevated overlook. We just took it all in. I felt honored, privileged, and mostly blessed. Honored because I am in the midst of the homes of these creatures. Privileged because I am one of very few to be here- I keep hearing David Attenborough speaking in my ears. But mostly, I feel blessed because I am witnessing God’s glorious Creation in all its fabulous diversity.

We reluctantly hiked back down and did the maze back through the colonies of King Penguins and Fur Seals. I even saw some pup seals nursing. So intimate and just life happening as we head back. We took turns being aided in scrubbing our boots. Then we boarded the next Zodiac and went back to the yacht.

We doffed our gear quickly, with the morning’s venture we were sweating🥵!!! It’s 60 degrees outside. We won’t be needing our parkas the rest of the day! We went to our room, changed, and grabbed some fruit, lemonade, and a muffin to share from Paula’s Pantry. We went up to the Dome and watched as the yacht pulled out of Fortuna Bay, and were lucky to spot a glacier calve!!!

The yacht pulled into Hercules Bay by 1045. It was a beautiful bay with a lovely waterfall sliding down the mountain in two stages. We could spot the white of the distant penguins and even spotted some, almost a third of the way up. We were the first of the second group to go out. The weather was still gorgeous, so we opted for no parkas. By noon we were on our Zodiak, with guide Alex and cruising the bay. As we got close we could see the orangish band of lichen very well. Then there were the Macaroni Penguins, right in front of us. A few Chinstrap and Gentoo Penguins were amongst them. Alex steered us along the shore, pointing out many animals or relating facts and behavior. On to directly in front of the waterfall and we saw a few Elephant Seals and many Fur Seals. Along the shore Kelp, or seaweed clung to the rocks, sashaying in the waves, mesmerizing, until it was broken by some critter moving in line of sight. Before we knew it we were heading back to the yacht, boarding and going on to our third site. We did grab some lunch at the restaurant. But back to our room, quickly, readied and to the dome to watch more of the South Georgia Island in front of us.

At 1400 we arrived in Stromness Harbor. We saw a little boat – it seemed so small, almost like a remote controlled one! Maybe it’s for research purposes?? Questions! (The questions, thankfully most have been answered with all the knowledgeable, amazing staff.)👍🏻 We passed by Leith Whaling Station, operated from 1909-1965, going onto Stromness, and its Whaling Station, from 1907-1965. This was where Shackleton hiked to seek the rescue of his men, and is where we are going for a land excursion. We boarded a Zodiac and went ashore. This venture is for 1.5 hours. We went first toward the remnants of the station itself. We have to stop pretty far away, but can see enough. The buildings are definitely abandoned with many rooflines exposed with gaping holes from the elements. Only one building is kept up and is a stark white to set it apart. This is where Shackleton was directed and stayed some nights making plans instantly to get his crew in at least two areas…if they were still alive.

Anyway, we go on. There is a 2 km hike back to a waterfall. We followed the flags and cones as we walked by a few sparse groups of penguins and fur seal pups. They are gradually taking it back over. We came to a little pool of water with penguins “bathing”, then up a small hill about halfway. Just the small bit of elevation was a nice viewpoint. Onward to the waterfall passing by some staff, directing and answering questions. At the waterfall, we stopped, admired and were able to talk with Flor some. She made alive the story of Shackleton coming to the station. She told us we could touch the water at the base of the small waterfall and also of the tradition of wetting the back of your neck. So we did just that. Overall, what an experience to think of Shackleton and retrace some of his mishappened third polar venture! We then meandered back to get back on a Zodiac to the yacht.

Once on board we immediately went to our room and showered. We readied and went up to the Dome. We started a conversation with a lady from Ca/Utah, and later her sister joined us. They left around 1910, and by 1920, we went down for supper. We were to have a meal with an expedition crew member, but it was cancelled. So instead, the sisters we were just talking with, sat together with us for a meal. It was nice! Jeff and I had appetizers of Tomato Soup, and Poached Monkfish Cheeks with caviar in a Champagne Beurre Blanc sauce; & mains of Mongolian Beef with garlic rice and veggies, and Seared Butterfish with sauteed spinach. We both also had a dessert: Berry Blossom Cheesecake and The Drunken Blue Cheese- sliced chorizo, blue cheese with a port wine reduction over caramelized onion, and Roquefort ice cream. Before we knew it was five minutes until nine! We all hurried left to go to the nightly Recap and Briefing. Chad informed us of tomorrow’s agenda! Bed by 2200. What another gloriously beautiful, and packed day!!!