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Antarctica #5

     February 17,

IF YOU ARE CURRENT LOOKING AT OUR BLOG THERE ARE MORE PICTURES ON THE PREVIOUS

ANTARCTICA POSTS

We both were awake by 0600… maybe due to excitement? We both looked out our balcony window as the Yacht pulled into the Godthul area on South Georgia Island. We got around & readied, and went down for breakfast. We both just did buffet food items. I had coffee and Jeff stuck with juice. When we finished we went up to the Dome.

We went back to our room by 0800, as the first group, #5, was called to go out. There are eight groups, made into 2 sections – groups #1-4 and then #5-8. For our first venture we “drew the straw” to be in the last section and the last group, as we are in group #4. Our group doesn’t start until the 0900 hour. We figured out what to wear and put on our waterproof pants. It is partly sunny outside and crisp cool. Hopefully we won’t be overly hot. We went down to the Atlas Lounge and waited talking with two people from Colorado.

Finally! At 0930 we were called to go to the mud room. We geared up fast – just our parkas and boots to put on…a staff member also aided us. Our first outing was labeled a Zodiac Cruise. We board with at least three people constantly guiding us – one at a time down the steps into the Zodiac to our Excursion Guide, Flor. Once eight of us were on board, we set out. Flor went over a few safety things first, then steered the craft close to shore. We saw King Penguins, Gentoo Penguins, Fur Seals and Elephant Seals. Fantastic! Some penguin chicks – full grown already – are losing their feathers. The seals were molting. So lots of energy on shore, and sliding in the water as well. We were able to get some great pictures. What an absolute blessing to see them!!!

Then we moved on. Flor pointed out a solitary Macaroni Penguin. She was a great guide and was telling us so much, but it was hard to give her attention and watch the creation around us. Flor was taking us over to the waterfall, when she received a call to return!! Oh man-poo! She quickly diverted and showed us the waterfall fed from a small hidden lake which in turn was fed by one of the few glaciers. Then we begrudgingly remembered to be flexible. Flor took us back. The Captain called off the excursion do to a strongwind moving in. It was gusty and Flor did have to fight with the Zodiak a bit. Flor said we were only cut by 10 minutes.

Back on board we removed our parkas (which are lovely and warm) and boots; we went to our room, and shed the rest of our layers. What an excellent outing!! Our boat – once all loaded – left and moved on to Gryviken, an old whaling station. It was a tough go. The wind was blasting us so much the yacht was listing a tiny bit. It was amazing how quick the weather turned; but we made it. Then the Captain announced that the Inspectors of South Georgia “refused to board the yacht, due to the wind,” but they can register remotely and we can land. Then we went to lunch.

After lunch we went back up to the Dome. The wind we found out was at 30 knots and bursts over that. This time we found out we won’t do a landing here😢! The staff, being flexible, gave us a history lesson of the station in front of us, seeing, but not quite experiencing the station. The first speaker was our Zodiac guide, Flor. She talked of how whales were captured and killed at the station. Gruesome!! Google said the number was 175,000 on the island of South Georgia. Most of the whales were Humpback Whales, but they killed and processed any whale they could catch. Then another guide/speaker, Natalie, spoke of the more human side of the station as their home all were Norwegians…up to 800 men during the height of whaling. Then a quick Q&A as the ship moved to another area for a possible landing. We arrived at our destination, Jason Cove. We saw a Zodiac go to shore with crew and come back. Then we were in limbo for some time. The overhead annoucement came for an early breifing. So all went to the auditorium. Once this commenced we were back in limbo. Finally, the overhead announcement come for group #4 – that is us – to go to the Atlas Lounge! This was out of order, but we did not object as our group was the one that was shorted on the first outing. That was appreciated by all of us!

We readied quickly and went down to be the third Zodiac out. Our guide was Anastasia. Once we landed we were directed by various guides along the beach between set up cones and someone watched to make sure we stayed in the areas. Here we saw more King Penguins further away and more fur seals, especially babies. There were also guides distributed along a path to go up to an overlook. We went up with many others. Jeff went up further than I, but I was good. WOW! What a fantastic view of the rugged peaks behind us, the water and more big snow-capped mountains in front of us with glaciers winding and twisting, tortuously down to the water. And right in front of us tufts of tussac grass where seals can actually hide. The grass can get to be 2 meters (6.5 feet) high and some areas were quite marshy. Good thing to have mucking boots!😄

We hiked back down and spent more time on the beach. We then noticed three Gentoo Penguins as well as many Kings. Then the seals were getting too friendly and we had to back up. Then it was time to head back, reluctantly we readied to board our Zodiac. We had to scrub wash our boots, then boarded and headed back. Once again we were aided up and had to really wash our boots well – someone powerwashing and then through a boot wash as well. Once in the mud room we were given another warm cloth to wipe our face. I feel pampered. These little extra attentions are special. Anyway, we extracted ourselves from our boots and parkas and went back to our room, showered, and then went to the Dome to celebrate our fantastic two outings with champagne.

At 1900 we went for supper. We were the second couple going in. We shared three starters: a Goat Cheese Mousse with confit of cherry tomatoes; Cauliflower du Barry- baked cauliflower pureed with sourdough croutons; and Pork Secreto Iberico with pickled baby vegetables. Our mains: Josper- Ribeye “Ojo de Bife” (beef Ribeye) with peppercorn sauce and potato gratin & green beans; and Josper- Grilled Salmon filet with maple glaze and parsley/caper salsa verde with roasted root vegetables. For desserts: a hot Stilton cheese with plum chutney, pearl onion, and toasted sweet bread; and Tahini Vanilla Ice cream with almond crumble. I had a combo Riesling with another wine (started with Tor??) and Jeff had a Cab Sav, but our waiter recommended a port with my dessert, and you know I did that! After we finished we went back to our cabin and relaxed, knowing we had been blessed with an awesome South Georgia Experience!!!!

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