February 14

Awoke to the alarms going off at 5:30!! We both slept solidly last night. We hurriedly readied and out the door by 5:45. We arrived at the east gate entrance to the Taj Mahal by 5:55. While we are waiting the morning is very cool. I have on two long sleeve shirts and my jacket. The doors were opened at 6:20, and we got in with our online tickets. Then we had to go through security – a pad down and xray for bags. We collected our stuff and through the entrance… there it was, the Taj Mahal. It was still dawn and very little light. The “haze” made it seems to be ethereal. I almost felt like pinching myself, to make sure it was real. But then someone blocked my view or my picture – it's real and so are the people who want to see it too. We were actually surprised how many people there were this early. The reflection pools are great for pictures. We just could not get enough of this beauty. The white marble structure against a very, very pale blue white sky. 

We take the time for pictures. The morning sun is there but it is greatly obstructed by clouds and smog/haze. We went atop the marble structure of the Taj itself. It is 73 meters tall and outside is all carved ivory-white marble, and is flanked by two red hued buildings that carry the same inlay carvings over the big arches. These two buildings are a Mosque, house of prayer and the other an assembly hall. The red of these two contrasts greatly to the Taj, but also compliment it with those same marble inlays. The Taj was made in commemoration of the Emperor Shah Jahan's favourite wife, Empress Mumtaz Mahal. She died in 1631 at the birth of her 14th child. The Emperor had the tomb build in her memory, and the Emperor was buried here with her after his death in 1666. So there it is – love of a man for a woman! Happy Valentines Day. Some other facts. The approximate cost for building in 2024 terms is around $500 million! It is considered one of the New 7 Wonders of the World. It attracts nearly 7 million people a year (last listing in 2019, don't know numbers since COVID). The grounds of the Taj complex is 42 acres…  And the facts keep going.

Now we went to get slip covers for our feet so we could venture in, then through security. Inside the Mausoleum no pictures are allowed. It is very echoey, and supposed to be quiet; but it still holds a serenity. It is just beautiful! Again words fail, but I will try. It is all white marble with inlays and hints of green, red and yellow color of vines and flowers; geometric shapes. The tombs themselves are at the very center and are surrounded by a marble lattice structure, allowing just brief views, except for the planned opening. We complete the allowed circular path around the tombs and exited.

We just continued around the outside absorbing the views as the sun played peek a boo through the clouds. This caused some pinkish color to reflect on the white marble, but it does not come across in our pictures. We went back down off the Taj platform, and walked the grounds, (not really gardens).There is a museum on the grounds but it is closed. So we just kept going along the paths. Before we realized it we had spent three hours admiring and just in awe. 

We exited out the west gate and went to get breakfast. We found a street stall called Food Street Khao Gali. We were seated with an Indian couple. I had Chhole Bhature, which is a puffed bread with a spicy white chickpea curry and onions, white radishes, and tomato pickle; and a mini black coffee. Jeff had an Onion Dosa with the sambar and coconut curry and sour pickle; and a hot chocolate. Finished and hunger appeased.

Now we walked on along a blocked off road to the Agra Fort. Walking the path, we noticed the monkeys. (As I was writing this I realized, there weren't any monkeys in the Taj complex… hummm? Questions??) They are quite prevalent, but not problematic for us – we did not have food or anything they wanted. We arrived at the Fort in no time it seemed – I think I was still on 'a high' from the wonderment of the Taj Mahal.

Jeff acquired our tickets, and we ready to enter the main entry. We cross a bridge over a dry moat area. The red sandstone walls are massive. I'm trying to take pictures (I don't know if there is bad light for this sandstone. It always seems to pop with color.) Jeff is fending off the men who want to be our guide, or want us to come by their shop after we are done. The Fort has a bit of white marble inlay decoration, similar to the Taj. The Fort also follows along the Yamuna River as the Taj does. But comparisons stop here. The Fort stands on an ancient site,and starts having the interior palaces built in the late 1400's when Agra became a capital under Sikandar Lodi. But much of its present looks are credited to under Akbar during time of eight years  (1565-1573). The double walled ramparts are 21 meters tall and have many circular bastions. We entered. Jeff said one guide told him there are 16 palaces in this fort. We are set to see them all!

Inside there is more of a garden ground. This contrasts with the Taj, and also it is not symmetrical at all. There are many arched interior walls and white marble domes floating on buildings behind the walls. We just meandered with the flow of traffic, going from one building ('palace') to a square and another overlook. There seems to be quite a bit of areas closed off. The buildings we could go in were some of those white domes. Inside the white marble is carved very intricately on the walls and ceilings. There was a small Mosque of same white marble that an Emperor had built for his personal use. We saw a massive black throne platform. Then another private Mosque for the ladies of the harem, which is also white marble. It was all so stunning!! 

Then we went through the 'red palaces' with all their intricate carved columns and interiors of white marble contrasting big inlays with that deep red sandstone. There was also an area of just foundations to let your imagination run wild. It was here we met and talked at length with an Asian man that has transplanted to the twin cities of Minnesota. 

Now we meandered out of Agra Fort and hired a tuk-tuk. We arrived back to our hostel at around four pm. We had walked 17,000+ steps! It was time for a light lunch and a much needed siesta!!!

At 6:30 pm, the manager showed up and we asked for the hot water to be turned on. We took a shower and went up to the rooftop for special supper. The hostel restaurant guy, Matthew, made us a special Valentine Dinner with candlelight. We had Mutton Rogan and Chicken Biriyani with plain & cheese garlic Naan, and a Sula Shiraz Cabernet. It was a great way to cap our fantastic day in Agra, India.