November 4,

We were up and about by 0700. It rained through the night. We went to our included breakfast by 0750. Our host told us the tour is still on, despite the rain. We each were served a plate of three crepes rolled around sliced banana, then drizzled with chocolate; also had an over easy egg on 1/2 of a baguette with laughing cow cheese, cucumber and tomato. We were also given a hot tea for Jeff and coffee for me. It seemed a bit much, but our host told we need the energy. We are doing a kayak tour – with Phong Nha Kayaking Tours in Phong Nha Cave.

Our guide picked us up at 0820-ish. We were driven to the “office”, which seemed to be a deserted restaurant with a table and chairs, where we were directed to sit. We had to sign a form – first time in quite awhile. After that we were introduced. The main guy called himself 'Monkey' and introduced the other guy as 'Ho' or as Ladies Boy. I joking made a move to the other side of Jeff away from Ho was on my other side. Everyone laughed. It broke the ice. Anyway, we got a dry bag and paid for a waterproof case for my phone – only 50K just under 2 bucks. We four loaded back up – not to far – and we stopped. Ho got out. Monkey said he was procuring our entry tickets into the cave. All business taken care of we were driven to the kayak launch point. Monkey did also say we are the only ones on the tour today – “VIP's we were,” he said. We loaded up – Jeff and I in one kayak; Monkey in one; and Ho in a third. The driver stayed behind. It was 0910. The water had a pretty good current that we had to paddle against but the cave was not far.

We entered the cave as did a small boat of tourists paddled by a couple of oarsmen. Monkey said the water was up some from the rain, and we heard the boat scraping the cave ceiling in a low spot. We did not have this problem, but did still have the current against us. The tourist boat turned back early at a let out area for the tourists. We continued, paddling about 2.25 Km (1.4 miles) into the cave by kayak. The cave is lit up with strategic lights as we start. It really opens up as we go. You cannot capture the vastness in pictures, but I tried. As we got in further the light system stopped and we had to use our headlamps from our helmets that we were provided. Wow! It was so quiet except for distant running water that feeds the stream we are on; little waterfalls that drip or come out from crags in the ceiling; and our oars hitting the water. The formations are also large inside here. Monkey had names for a few of them. One was simply “lion” in profile, or he said could be a “lobster”. I could see both, but I thought a walrus, so I was leaning toward the lobster. The others I cannot recall.

Anyway, we arrived at the far end of the river. You could see where it comes out of the rocks. We unloaded and scampered out on some of the dry ground. Now we did some hiking, but we had to step across two metal ladders fixed in place over chasms and then some more boulder stepping. I was doing “okay” until we came to a place going up an incline needing rope assistance. I called it there for me. Ho stayed back with me, but Monkey and Jeff went on further. Jeff said he and Monkey climbed up and down and around going further into the cave. Monkey said to Jeff his tours were the only ones to go back this far. Jeff told me when they came back… I chose wisely to stop – I would not have liked it. While they were gone, Ho and I just sat in peace. I watched the insects (mayflies, maybe?? Monkey had called them mosquitoes, but they are not biting.) flying in the headlamp's beam. Occasionally a bat would swoop into the shaft of light catching one of the constant swarm of bugs. Also we just listened to the far rush of water in the distance. I did turn off my headlamp and Ho's was the only light for quite some time. It is amazing how our eyes adjust and that you can see so much with very little light.

As we all regrouped we went back to the kayaks and reversed our trip. Going this way was much easier as we were going with the current. Jeff and I really did not have to paddle, Jeff just had to steer. Crazy how the cave looks so different going back through. Somewhere here realized the main cave lights had been turned off. We still had our headlamps on, though. Anyway, we came to a “beach spot” – a built up sand area and we got out. We will eat lunch here. Monkey took Jeff and I to a couple of formations a little back in an alcove area. One was two columns that were or are believed to aid in a couple having a baby. But then he showed us a wall area that was covered in writing, believed by the Cham people over 2,000 years ago. It is a lost language and not decipherable. Monkey also showed us a part of the cave changed drastically with severe flooding, up to 10 meters (33 feet), ten years ago, it changed the flow of the water here. We walked back and saw that Ho had set up our lunch.

Feeling like royalty, we sat on a mat ladened with containers of — pork with lemongrass, tofu spiced – best I've had yet, omelet, cucumber, pineapple, mango, two baguettes, two rice, and two cokes (Jeff asked for an exchange of water). There was also chilli sauce and mushroom sauce for seasoning! Quite a spread and way, way too much! We ate all we needed and then Monkey said time for a nap, and we all turned off headlamps. It was pitch black. Down only about 10-15 minutes total for the nap, when Monkey said time to get up and turned on a big light, and boom, the big main lights came on also. Jeff and I went back to check out the area behind us with the lights all on. Then we did photo ops.

We loaded up and traveled most of the way back, stopping at a built up walkway view area for people on the boats to get out and explore. Monkey lead us though the formations here – they were spectacular. So many seemed to be like large Jellyfish with extraordinarily long tentacles. We walked all the way out of the cave to the visitors center. We then reboarded out kayak, because we had to cross over to the other bank to get back on the van. It is still raining! Ho was already there and helped nab us. Water is still pretty swift. But Wow! What a great adventure… kayaking in a cave!

We got back to the small town of Phong Nha around 1330. The main street is having water built up and some flow into half of the road. Arrived at our place and back into our bungalow. We got out of our wet stuff and cleaned up, relaxing as to continued to rain and rain. Around 1700, Jeff talked with our host and he called for a carry out pizza for us. It was from Tree House, and was surprisingly one of the best we have had in some time. It had salami, green peppers, onions, and mushrooms with great cheese.

Back in our room watched some You tube. Bed by 2200.