October 31,

I awoke around 0630. Jeff said he'd been up since 0330! We got around and went to breakfast by 0700. But they weren't quite ready yet. We had bread, with laughing cow cheese, tomato, cucumber, and a fried egg; a plate of apple pieces, pineapple slices, and bananas (that we took with us); and fresh passion fruit juice. I also had a coffee with milk and sugar, Jeff had rose(?) tea. Yummm 😋!

At 0740, we went out on our scooter. (BTW, I have a purple helmet!) We drive over to Trang An. Trang An is an Ecotourism Complex that is a World Cultural and Natural Heritage Place. That said it is very touristy and can get crowded. We arrived and our options were explained to us. We chose – Tour #3 – out of the four tours available. We will be squired about by a oared small boat along on a lake(?) through three caves, and to three temples. Jeff bought four tickets so we have the boat to ourselves! This cost us 250K Dong per person – 1million Dong total ($39.56).

We are directed through zigzag or switchback lines – that are thankfully empty at this time. Our tickets (all four) were scanned; we went through a turn style; and now we were pointed toward a boat. The lady driver waves at us, because there are many boats lined up ready for boarding! I clamber on then Jeff stepped on. Anyway, our driver set off.

It's a three hour tour. The weather started getting… Just kidding😂🤣!! It is for three hours, but the weather was great and the views were extraordinary!  We travel along, getting in a few pics of us right away. (Jeff and I forgot our hats, so we are wearing bandanas on our heads – we look like motorcyclists!) We were noticing as we go little birds, our driver/guide calls them ducks. We also noted some vegetation growing along the shore and in the water. Our guide uses Google translate and it comes across that they are foxtail weeds. (These translations are not perfect but the primary gist comes across, enough that you can communicate!) The vegetation reminds me of anacharis that we put in our pond back home. We also see some great dark pink, lovely water lilies. The backdrop of grand Karst-type mountains falling into the water – the nature and wonder here were… stunning! Our driver said the water is 2-4 meters deep, holding up 3 fingers. She offered and took pics of us. She did not do the lead of Em – one, two, three; but she rivaled the amount of pictures Em took. I never got her name. She was very quiet… just did her job.

We arrive at our first temple – Trinh Temple. As we arrive, we are greeted with two fish sculptures from the water. Nice! We exit the boat and were given five minutes to peruse. The placard temple translation did not come across, so we just enjoyed. As we went into the main temple we were greeted by a butterfly landing on the floor – wanting its picture taken. It was a brilliant orange. It was trying to outshine the grand alter of the temple– for me the butterfly did, not to say the alter was not brilliant, but the butterfly was glorious. We walked around the temple grounds and back to our boat – greeted by our “oar lady”!

Immediately we enter into the first cave – Dot Cave, 1 km long (almost 2/3 mile long)!!! Our guide took our photo right away and then plied the boat through this cave. Sometimes the “ceilings” were low and she would warn, “Lay down”, which was more “duck”. But then the cave would open up with a couple of times being so cavernous and huge we could not see the top due to the blackness enveloping it. Yet it kept going!! So many stalactites and formations, it was amazing. The lighting was throughout with filtered lights strategically placed for dramatic effect. The only down side was seeing the wiring for the lights, which had added so much… Which is best – no lights or lights with the wiring showing? It's a Big Question!!?!

We exited the cave with a small bit of lazy meandering (only 5 minutes) and entered our 2nd cave. This was Van Cave, and it is 400m (just over two tenths of a mile) long. It seemed to be carved out by machines. Not as impressive. Then we exit this cave and after 10 minutes of more lazy cruising, we come to our second temple – Suoi Tien Temple. I caught two little girls having a snack here. this temple has another grand alter piece. But its statues were a man and a lady – I don't know their significance as there was not a placard describing the temple. We left and returned on our boat.

Next we came to Dia Linh Mountain, our guide did a Google translate that said “the sacred mountain is honored for Ha Long on land and the filming scene of King Kong School here.”  (As you can see there are still issues with translate.)  From what I could find it is considered a sacred mountain for the locals. It is Karst topography like in Ha Long Bay and it stands in the middle of the water like a pen tower. then she took a bunch of pictures of us and the mountain, from two different sides. We also pass Kim Quy Mountain which is turtle shaped.

Cruising on we saw pussy-willows. I love these – haven't seen any in quite awhile. Somewhere along here she asked us to help paddle. We did, and started passing people. The oars are made of recycled things. Some the shafts are PVC tubing, some bamboo. The blade was cut out of plastic barrel drums. Then we come to the final cave Dai Cave, which is 150m long (492 feet) long. We saw maintenance men replacing light bulbs inside here. Then we exit and come to our final temple, Vu Lam Royal Steps. It is from 1285 (maybe??). This place “served as a revolutionary base by the Tran Dynasty's Kings”, according to the placard, against Mongolian invaders. There was more info but it seems convoluted in translation. We saw statues of past Tran Kings, flanked on right and left by two guardians – one obviously a  warrior, the other dealing with knowledge (?, I think). As we existed and got back in the boat, our guide took us to a pavilion structure in the water right in front of the Royal Steps. She did not explain it, so I don't know its purpose. Now it functions as an Instagram op. There was even a Wedding couple getting some photos here. Then lastly we pass by grass teepee-like huts with metal sculptures of native peoples. Our guide showed on her phone that this was part of the King Kong movie set. It is now called Trang An's New Khe Coc Village. You can pay and go out here. It seemed contrived and gimmicky to us.

Now we just paddle in, passing boats and passed by a couple. There were a bunch more boats out now – coming in & going out. One boat coming in, had a little kid dangling her feet in the water… Looked inviting and like a great idea!! Somewhere along here, we were commenting on how many boats there are. Our guides' boat was 1,115. She must have understood us and said there are 2,000 boats!! WOW! That would so congested if they were all out!! Anyway, we arrived back by 1050. We tipped (100K Dong – $3.95) and thanked our guide. That was an awesome excursion!

We went back to our scooter and went back into Tam Coc. Our tickets included another place we can go, but we have three days — tomorrow maybe? We arrive back and went to a bus booking agent (one of the dozens agents. It seems to be about every other business in much of these tourists places.)  Anyway we booked tickets for out of here on Sunday. Then we went to our place and took a “swim” (more a cool down) and showered. Then we went for lunch – a light Banh Mi at Bami Bread Tamcoc. It's right off the side of the road. I had a Pate and Char Siu (Pork Belly) and an Avocado Smoothie; Jeff chose a Pate and Sausage (it was hot dog😒) and a Mango Smoothie. It was great as we sat in little people chairs by the side of the road just watching. We felt rejuvenated, so we decided to go back and explore.

We went to Thai Vi Temple. We entered through a gate and entered a courtyard with its bell and drum towers flanking the temple. As we entered the temple a dog was sleeping on the floor there. An older monk was off at a desk playing the radio. We walked around taking pics and were about to leave when the monk came over to us and had us sit in some chairs by the sleeping dog. Then he walked over to a stringed instrument and started playing for us. He called it a Dan bau, this translates as a one string zither. It was great. As we were listening three or four others came and sat on the little people stools and listened as well. We noticed the pictures of him playing for renowned audiences above his head.  When he finished, he played a wood flute-type instrument. We had a little concert. When he finished this – he was winded, and he asked for money in the donation box. Jeff gave him 50k Dong ($2). That was special and very unexpected!!! 

Next we went to Bich Dong Pagoda and Cave. We had to pay for the scooter to park 20K dong (80 cents), but not any entrance fee. We cross over a bridge walkway over water fields and enter a gate. There was an temple here then many steps up to another temple that was built into a cave opening! Pretty impressive feat! We walked around it in the cave. the cave opened up and went further behind the cave and saw couple of other shines inside. Then circled back out where we came in. We climbed back down the stairs and went to a little water overlook beside the first temple. We noticed these little pink masses of orbs. We had no idea what it was. I saw a guide, showed him my picture and asked what they were. “Snail's eggs,” he reluctantly told me. We hadn't thought of that one. They were in clusters on rocks in the water – such a contrast because of the bright pink. Anyway, we went back to our scooter and back to our place. We arrived and had a siesta – exhausted!

We went back out for sunset and then dinner. We went to Jamerik Taco Bar. We had two tacos – a Pork Carnitas and a Chipotle Chicken; and BBQ (grilled) Chicken Nachos. I had a Mango Margarita; Jeff a regular Margarita. This was great Mexican food – better, more authentic Mexican than what we had in Bangkok! As we were eating they were playing late 70's/early 80's disco type music -reminded me of my roller skating days!!

We went back to our place for the final time and I started this blog! Bed by 2100! Another full big day in Vietnam!!!