June 26,

Yesterday, we had our first breakfast at our place, Theepan's. It was very good! There was a spread of Dahl, Sambal, Coconut, Fried Egg- one each, X4 Roti, X4 Toast, Butter & Jam, Papaya and Tea all delivered to the table outside of our room. The portions were just about right. We came the closest to eating all of it – well, than we have in quite awhile for a “spread” breakfast. Then we got out and about.

We went to Trincomalee. It's the largest city on the east side of Sri Lanka, and only about a 20 minute drive (14km or 8.6 miles). We are in search of coffee for me and there are some potential sites to see there. We went to two different places for the coffee and struck out. This town just doesn't have coffee roasters or we don't know where to look… so strike one and  two, I gave up. We headed to go to the sites.

We started at Fort Frederick. It was originally named the Fort of Triquillimale, built by the Portuguese in 1624; and was made on the debris from an ancient Hindu temple – Koneswaram. (It was debris because a Portuguese colonial had the temple destroyed.) But the Dutch, when they came into power, had this fort dismantled and a new one built, which is now Fort Frederick. The fort ruins entrance is free, but not the main part of the fort as it is still in use by the military! A last remnant you can see – from Dutch rule – is a landmark gateway from 1675, on one side and 1676 on the other. Inside the ruins there are free range, spotted deer. We park CB and hike up to the restored Koneswaram temple, passing through a few open stalls lining the way up. 

The road opened to the temple which is dominated by a huge Hindu Shiva idol statue with four arms and a tower gate entry that is decorated with so many other idol gods. These gods are all painted in a more pastel color scheme. We walk around the temple first, because the views from up here are amazing. Trincomalee is a very large natural harbor… according to Wikipedia it is the fourth largest natural harbor in the world(?). We also pass by many smaller idol station worship places, dotting around the main temple.

Next, we went inside the temple, as we are allowed to do so, but no pictures are allowed. Some of the statues inside here were recovered in the debris from the prior, ancient temple, but there are not any labels in English… so don't know which ones this pertains to. There was one statue that had nine heads and nine arms, but originally it had ten of each. The god supposed cut off one of its heads and an arm, making the head and arm into a sitar. He was playing the sitar made of its body parts. Something to do with an apology for a wrong it had done… or some twist of this. It was hard to look at, very hard. Anyway, we left the temple site and walked back down the gauntlet of shops. We did buy some sweet snacks, looked like a peanut brittle. Loaded up into CB and moved on, leaving the fort. There was – a smaller than most we have seen lately – stupa just outside the fort. It was brilliant white, but not visit worthy.

Now we went to the beach here briefly –  get a better feel of the largeness of the harbor. Then to the National Maritime and Naval History Museum, parked and went to the ticket desk. The museum was closed, it was a little bit of a disappointment, but not really. The exterior looked very outdated and rundown… maybe neglected would be better to say. So we loaded back into CB and pretty much decided to leave this city. We stopped by the Cargill's here before we left (as there is not one in Nilaveli). We also got gas, finding the 95 octane CB is supposed to have, Jeff had them fill it up. I have not mentioned the filling stations all have attendants, as has been the case in most countries since we started. 

Back at our place we took a siesta and had a light snack-type lunch. Around 1800 we went back out to the beach to walk some and find a restaurant for dinner. As we were checking out one place, I found one of the largest alive tree snails I have seen. The snail was interesting but not the menu, we moved on. We walked past Poseidon Diving – where we were the day before to dive. As the crow flies and along the beach it is not that far from us, but we are getting some steps in. Turned around and came back the Poseidon crew and other locals were playing a decent game of beach volleyball. One of the crew recognized us and waved. Then right next “door” was a restaurant, Moon Isle Restaurant. We liked their menu and stayed.

We had starter of Bangers and Mash- a jumbo 'Bockwurst' sausage w/ mashed potato and a 'homemade brown gravy', more like a hollandaise sauce; and a main of Grilled Fish- 'fresh reef fish seasoned with local herbs and spices grilled,' served with sides of sauteed veggies and garlic, white rice. WOWZA. I'm going to say it has been the best fish we have had in awhile as far as flavor profile for me! We watched the color of sunset unfold.  We are on the wrong side of Sri Lanka to see the sun set on the water, but the spectacle of pinks, oranges and reds striping the sky made up for that. Jeff  had a Lion Beer and I had an Arrack Sour- a mixed drink of Arrack, fresh juice, lime, sugar, and topped with lemon bitters. Excellent meal and great ending of the day…. except one technicality, Jeff had forgot to “reload” his wallet with money. He asked and they did not take credit cards. So he was starting to walk back to our place for money, when the main guy (owner?) waved. He said we could come back and pay tomorrow. This is the craziest thing to us!!  They are so trusting, as this is the second time we have done this, and the second place they have done this! Unbelievable! We went home with our paper bill.🤯 We walked back along the beach in the dark with the cows. Crazy things of Sri Lanka!

Today, we had breakfast again at our place – same, except the fruit was watermelon. The local fruit in Sri Lanka has been exceptional: watermelons, mangoes, pineapples, and bananas… to name a few. As we finishing the crows invaded, again like yesterday. We held our ground – yesterday they got the papaya our neighbors had left. The hostess came running over to shoo them off. This reminded me of The Birds movie by Alfred Hitchcock. I mentioned this to our new-young neighbors – they seemed to understand what I was referencing.  Anyway, we went out on the beach to the Moon Isle Restaurant – to pay them! I'm still wrapping my head around them doing that last night!  After that we pretty much went back to our place and hung outside as long as we could endure the humid hot air. I started this blog. Back inside to relax, had a light lunch, and watched some You tube and Jeff researched some stuff we need to buy in Thailand – like real Keen shoes… we just had to glue mine as the sole is separating. 

Around 1700 we went back out and got more steps on the beach. The ocean is pretty calm, the tide is out and the temperature has cooled considerably. We would have walked further but someone was burning their trash and causing quote a bit of smoke so we turned around to head back. It is a shame how much this affects the air, because they burn plastic in their trash. Anyway, there were a few more people enjoying the beach – locals and foreigners – but still nothing in comparison like the past Friday and Saturday evenings.

We stopped at Kowri Family Food. It is literally right next to Theepan's Guest House, where we are staying. We were greeted and then the menu was brought to us on someone's phone!  We had a Fruit salad (bananas, mango, and pineapple with a hint of savory seasoning); some hot, not spicy, French Fries; and a BBQ (grilled) Fish. [He said it was Parrot fish, but the picture he pulled up was of another fish (which we have had before and enjoyed.)] It was another great meal – more home cooked – as we waited for 45 minutes. It was very fresh, hot – made after we ordered. But the shocker it was all served to us relatively about the same time! This hardly ever happens at the very local places.

Finished we went back to our place. I finished this blog as Jeff read. Plan on bed around ten – blessings to all.